Torque Specs for Derby Cover
#22
06-29-2019, 12:29 PM
Road Captain
#23
06-29-2019, 01:15 PM
Ok guys didn't get started until this morning and had to build a little stand out of 2x6 first.
Anyway... process went smooth. After seating screw and turning clockwise 1/4... it was about where it was before. But it gets hot where I am... so i did mid point between 1/4 and 1/2.
Put little grease over o ring to help seat and followed recommended tightening pattern. I first tightend by hand. Decided to use 1/4 beam torque wrench... first patern at 40 in lbs... then pattern again at 80.
About to test her out.
Anyway... process went smooth. After seating screw and turning clockwise 1/4... it was about where it was before. But it gets hot where I am... so i did mid point between 1/4 and 1/2.
Put little grease over o ring to help seat and followed recommended tightening pattern. I first tightend by hand. Decided to use 1/4 beam torque wrench... first patern at 40 in lbs... then pattern again at 80.
About to test her out.
#24
06-29-2019, 06:18 PM
Well the ride went well... no seeping. I was hoping that this would help with the clunking but it is about the same... maybe a little better. I find the only way to shift without the clunk is just the right rpms and shifting very quickly. I know that the clunk is normal supposedly... but maybe try to adjust cam chains? Could this help?
#26
06-29-2019, 08:06 PM
#27
06-29-2019, 11:17 PM
This is what I use for inch pounds. Got it to mount scopes but is handy for the bike too.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Wheeler-Firea...nid=1908126902
https://www.ebay.com/p/Wheeler-Firea...nid=1908126902
#28
06-30-2019, 02:12 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
If it's already weakened my chances of stripping it snugging it up by hand are just as good as using a torque wrench. But if I use a properly calibrated inch/lbs torque wrench all the time I won't weaken the threads in the first place, just tightening them up "Snug Enough" might weaken them because my version of Snug might be different then the spec.
Engineers design things and set specifications for a reason. Follow the specifications and you will reduce your chance of screwing things up.
When we say Torque Wrench we aren't talking about a 3 foot long breaker bar, we are talking about a precision tool that measures twisting force.
Buy a decent 1/4" drive torque wrench calibrated for inch/lbs and use it.
Engineers design things and set specifications for a reason. Follow the specifications and you will reduce your chance of screwing things up.
When we say Torque Wrench we aren't talking about a 3 foot long breaker bar, we are talking about a precision tool that measures twisting force.
Buy a decent 1/4" drive torque wrench calibrated for inch/lbs and use it.
I was assuming that a previous owner who also didn't know how to tighten a simple retaining screw might have been there first . Thanks for explaining what a torque wrench is .
Last edited by Midpegs; 06-30-2019 at 02:15 AM.
#29
06-30-2019, 02:18 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
Well the ride went well... no seeping. I was hoping that this would help with the clunking but it is about the same... maybe a little better. I find the only way to shift without the clunk is just the right rpms and shifting very quickly. I know that the clunk is normal supposedly... but maybe try to adjust cam chains? Could this help?
#30
07-01-2019, 01:00 PM
Yes, thank you. I remember awhile back reading about adjusting a "chain" to help with clunk. Additionally mentioned by another poster ... I will give adjusting the primary chain a shot. Will read up and watch vids on how to do this