Tonight's project, cutting off the rear fender supports. G.B.


Finally got around to cutting off the rear fender support!

I think I took 2 lbs off the bike


Test fit TC Bros skid plate

 

Cutting the frame fender support was the hardest part of my build. Its hard to take a new bike and cut part of the frame. Those are some heavy supports. I have a fender loop that I may someday install with a different seat and fender someday.

 

Now if I got a sporty for 1K like my BIL did, I would not care but I could not do that to one I thought I might resell. Makes me queasy to watch.

 

Just a FWIW, here's how one member built a DIY tensioner....

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...afe-bikes.html

hth,

T.

 

Very cool! It's giving me ideas for the Sportster that sits in my garage that I don't use.

 

LOL, I bet it would be hard cutting off the fender supports on a new or newer bike. It was pretty easy on a $1,200 Sportster! My seat fender loop is modified and ready to weld on. However I need to take my bike to a friends who has a welder capable of welding to the thick frame section. My 110V MIG will not do the job. G.B

 

Thanks, I saw that thread and that is the same idler or tensioner I have. He bought a nice $800 plus exhaust that comes with the perfect mounting bracket in which to mount the idler to. I was tying not to spend that much on the exhaust and was going to use the stock rear muffler bracket which is my current problem. G.B.

 

I have built entire trailers with my 110v mig. Especially using flux core wire. A bit messy but penetrates deeper. But if tour friend can do deeper and cleaner welds it might be worth the wait.

 

I have also used my 110 mig for some pretty deep welds using flux core. But thats using alot of heat and like you said, the welds dont look good.

 

I have a friend who builds award winning hot rods that I am going to have weld the loop on for me. He has a large 220V MIG which will do a much better job than my 110V MIG. I am really happy with how the 3/4" dia SAE 1018 solid rod fits in the seat loop. The plan is to plug weld the couplers to the seat loop. After welding the loop and couples to the frame, I will add a couple supports to the seat loop which will also give me places to bolts on the seat.

I have spent the better part of the week researching exhausts. I am bummed my Lowbrow Hooligan 2 into 1 system is not going to work. Going with a mid to high style exhaust will not only give me the Tracker/Scrambler look I want but simplify things greatly. Wont need an idler wheel for the belt as I will cut off the rear stock exhaust mount which is what the belt is rubbing on. The bottom line. other than a Supertrapp XR style system for $850 - $1.000. there really isn't a mid or high system made for 86 - 2003 Sportsters. I was going to settle with a straight high n tight drag style system but found out that people are having issues with them melting their rear shock. There are versions with a turn out but you cant add a baffle to them. So with any luck, I am picking up tomorrow a used RSD Track 2 into 1 mid exhaust. I talked with the tech department at RSD and they told me it should bolt to my 97' heads. So other than fabing a new mounting bracket, it should work and will give me the look I am after. Stay tuned. G.B.




Dime City Cycles 1" seat loop with SAE 1018 solid rod couplers

Hard to tell with this pic but I ground some compound angles in the couples to match up with frame

Paint ground off frame

This is the plan. I don't have the loop centered, it is just sitting on the frame to show the mounting concept