Good use of the noodle. I have one of those I pulled off my truck, long time ago. I saved it figuring I might find a use just like that someday.

Your bike is looking, to me, more like a Motard, than scrambler. I think thats the term for them. The bikes they race that funs right off pavement to dirt roads and back again. The stance, wheel size etc.

 

Thats the easiest way I could come up with, and so far it has worked out fine. I put slots in the bracket I welded to the exhaust mount so you can adjust the amount of tension you want.

 

whylee, I am following your and others on here lead with the tensioner. I plan to weld a vertical steel plate on the outside edge of the rear exhaust mounting bracket. The Lowbrow Customs Kerker 2 into 1 Hooligan exhaust I have for this bike uses the the stock rear exhaust bracket. Slotting the mounting holes sounds like a good idea. If my location is off based on swing arm and shock travel, I can then easily adjust the tensioner tension it applies on the belt. G.B.

 

That was the main reason for slotting for me, so I could get it all lined up. I wanted the tensioner wheel to ride in the center of the belt, since the belt is wider than the wheel.

 

I haven't had much time to work on the bike the past couple weeks so not much progress to report. However, I did get a little work done on the belt tensioner. It is mounted a little farther rearward than I would like on the exhaust bracket. The size of the tensioner pivot and fitment of the vertical mounting plate to the rear exhaust bracket pushed the tensioner rearward. I am not a welder and don't pretend to be. I need lots more practice as my welds suck. However, my welds kind of match the exhaust bracket repair as it was busted off by the previous owner who also was not a welder, LOL. G.B.


Tacking mounting plate in position


I plan to cut down the mounting plate and weld some additional gussets on it. A little more clean up on the welds might happen too.

 

Ya know when I look around for a project bike like this one, all I see are guys asking 4K for a 20+ year old bike, and doesn't usually look that great.

My former brother in law, in Tenn, just picked up a 2000 883 in top shape, with an SE 1200 kit on it, FOR ONLY $1000. I think it has about 20,000 miles on it. That would be a perfect starting platform, in my book.

 

He stole that bike, I need to find those deals.

 

Yes he did. Poor guy selling, had to sell his car and his bike to pay back pmts for child support, or go to jail. Do not know what led him to that position, but it sucks for him. Better than jail though.

Now which one of you guys are behind in your child support payments? .........

 

The bike I bought has 19,000 miles on it and was one of two that I found for sale under $2,000. I paid $1,700 for this one and it came with 3 seats, sissy bar, 2 exhausts, windshield, 2 belt guards, extra mirrors, and more. So far I have sold $450 in parts that I don't need for this project. Which means the bike cost me $1,250 which makes me pretty happy.. I have seen a number of bikes here lately priced $1,900 and less. So they are out there, just have to be patient. G.B.

 

I finally got to work on my bike project a little last week. Mounting the idler to the rear muffler bracket and installing the Lowbrow Customs/Kerker Hooligan exhaust I ran into an issue. The exhaust is not going to clear the idler mount on the muffler bracket. Something I didn't think about or check. It not even close. I am guessing it is like a 3/8" interference. I really like the exhaust but think I am going to go a different direction and go with a high mounted system. If I go with a high mounted exhaust I can cut off the rear muffler mounting bracket on the frame which is the reason I needed to add an idler in the first place. It will simplify things a lot going with a high exhaust.




Hard to tell by this pic but the idler bracket is going to prevent the muffler from slipping on the pipe with around 3/8" interference.

A different angle showing the interferance

Using the stock muffler bracket, I cant really see how I can position the idler?

You have to roll or tuck the pipe right up against the engine so the brake pedal clears the rear cylinder pipe.