I have been trying to sort out turn signal issues all week. So what I am working with is a full set of 4 Arlen Ness Othello LED turn signals. I wired them to the original Sportster turn signal AMP connectors. My 97' has the self cancelling and 4 way flasher turn signal unit with the front turn signals also serving as running lights. Wiring it up the first time I had the issue were both front and rear turn signals for whichever side you turned on did not flash just were a solid light. If you activated the 4 way flashers, they worked as they should.
So I just received a Badlands LE-03 module and wired it to the rear turn signals per the instructions. The turn signals now flash. However, the fronts flash but are barley noticeable and both right and left front turn signal flash no matter which button is pushed. The rears flash correctly to whichever button is pushed. Not sure what is going on? If I disconnect the front turn signals running light wire all the turn signals flash correctly.
I ran a 12v wire straight from the battery to power the running lights and that did not help. I am half tempted to go without the running lights on the front turn signals and call it good. However any extra lighting on a bike helps you to be seen so I wouldn't mind having them if I can figure out how to make this all work.
I am going to call Badlands tomorrow and see what they say. However, if anyone has had something similar go on with their bike when converting to LED turn signals I love to hear what you did?
Cant wait to finish up the wiring so I can get to swapping gas tanks out. I picked up a silver near perfect tank off of a 1999' 1200 Sportster Sport that looks like this one. I really like the Harley Davidson tank graphic with the checkerboard and I have always liked Silver Harleys. Win win! G.B.
I took the Sportster on its first ride yesterday. Did about 80 miles. The bike starts and runs awesome! It had not run in 5 years before I bought it and after cleaning the gas tank and going thru the carb with a CV Performance rebuild and jet kit, I am super happy how it runs.
Well after about 30 miles the rear Burly shocks seemed to loosen up some. I was bottoming the rear tire out on the tail lamp mounting hardware. I had left about 3/8" of the screws sticking out of the nuts and these were adding grooves to the tire, oops. I need the 15' version of the Burly Brand Stilleto shocks for more clearance like a couple of you suggested. The shocks are ordered and I think I have a buyer for these 13" versions? I also cut off the tail lamp screws flush with the nuts.
The only other issue I had was I needed to reposition the clutch lever and tip it down. Even with that the clutch lever takes some effort to pull. I think a Barnett Easy Pull clutch cable will be in the bikes future. I have one on my Electra Glide and it takes no effort and works like butter.
Even though the bike ran great, I wanted to replace the plug wires as I am sure they are original 1997 vintage. I just installed today a Lowbrow Customs 8 mm cloth braided spark plug wire set. The red will look better with the silver tank that has red pin striping on it.
So once I swapped out the rear shocks all I need to do is paint the front fender silver and throw on the silver tank. Then i just need to get it dirty! G.B.
GB good report. Those 15" ought to do the trick, but......now you WILL need to raise the front to keep your steering geometry correct. Get the R dampers, but I would stick with 10w oil or close. I have the SE oil, and its pretty thick. No nose diving but they are stiffer. I wish I had some oils side by side to compare, or if I knew what weight SE fork oil is, I could recommend a starting point. I had 10w with the 4 hole R dampers, and it had BAD nose dive on braking. SE oil, with 2 hole R dampers, and no nose dive, but a little stiff. Whylee might have a recommendation.
GB good report. Those 15" ought to do the trick, but......now you WILL need to raise the front to keep your steering geometry correct. Get the R dampers, but I would stick with 10w oil or close. I have the SE oil, and its pretty thick. No nose diving but they are stiffer. I wish I had some oils side by side to compare, or if I knew what weight SE fork oil is, I could recommend a starting point. I had 10w with the 4 hole R dampers, and it had BAD nose dive on braking. SE oil, with 2 hole R dampers, and no nose dive, but a little stiff. Whylee might have a recommendation.
If you remember I installed a Progressive 2" drop kick in the forks. I am hoping I dont have to raise it? If I do I can raise it 1" or back to stock ride height with this kit. The little I have road it I am happy with how it rides in the front. I used the Harley fork oil when I installed the kit. This white Burly bike had the same 2" Progressive drop kit in the fork, 15" Burly Stilleto rear shocks and a 17" rear wheel. I will now have the same set up but an 18" rear wheel. So depending how it sits I may change the fork out to a 1" drop? G.B.
Well, obviously I forgot about the lowered front. Boy from that pic it does not look like that Burley front was lowered. It does not look as off as I thought it would. I had forgotten the specs on their bike, and that was your model.
I am surprised the forks did not bottom out, if the rear was.
Who would have thought 2" would have made that much difference? Haha...... Installed a pair of 15" Burly Stilettos today and it gives me a ton more rear tire/fender clearance than with the 13" versions. I have to think if I want to raise the forks an 1" or 2? Its raining here today to I cant get a better picture of the new clearance but will post when I do. G.B.
Looks much more capable. I would ride it a bit before swapping. Mine seemed a little twitchy on the freeway at 70 or above, and that was only going to 13s.
I suppose if one is used to sport bikes they might not notice or care but I am not.
Bu the way, the guy that bought my sporty sold his very clean 97 with low miles in less than a week for $3000. That bike was to pretty to scramblerize.
04-21-2020 | 03:15 PM
