Not the best picture but this might help? G.B.

 

So with a 2 day turn around from the local upholstery shop on my seat, I had to throw it on and take a quick ride around my sub. Dirt roads start 3 houses from mine. This thing is a blast! Cant wait to finish it up so I can really ride it. The seat is distressed black vinyl with grey stitching. Decided to save some money right now so I am currently painting the rear fender, rack, and misc brackets instead of having them powdercoated.






I think I might have a clearance issue with my exhaust bracket and the drive belt. I heard a "playing card in the spokes" noise when hitting a couple holes on the test drive that I think what the inside on the lower portion of the belt rubbing on the exhaust bracket on rear suspension compression? Think I will check suspension travel with the bike on a jack and removing the rear shocks to see what I am up against. The Burly Stiletto 13.5" shocks I think stand the rear end of the bike up higher than the ragged out original 97' shocks you see in the picture. So I don't know? G.B.

 

Ahh those bumps on the belt just make it run rough anyway. Let the bracket shave em off for ya to make it mice and smooth.

One more question, maybe you already answered and I missed it, but the rear part of the seat loop, whats it for, since the seat does not cover it?

 

Haha, I might just let that happen with the belt. I am not sure I can trim my exhaust bracket down any more and have it survive? Although when I switch over to a chain, that might be another story????

The seat loop holds up the rear fender and rack. I have copied some of my design elements from the bike that Burly Brand built a few years ago out of a 2006' Sportster. G.B.


Burly Brand bike

Burly Brand bike

 

Ok went back and looked at your bike. Now I see why I missed that, you do not have your fender on yet. Thats why it looked odd. I am a little slow on the uptake sometimes........

 

I have worked over my frame were the seat loop was welded on with a little bondo. It came out pretty nice I think. I then primed and painted the frame. I have also painted the rack and misc brackets. So I am down to finish painting the rear fender then I can finish assembly. I have spent the better part of the last three days wiring the Arlen Ness Xenolen LED turn signals. I had cut off the factory turn signal and rear lamp connectors to solder on the new LED lamps. I did some research last summer and bought a Badlands LED load equalizer. However, it appears I bought the wrong one. Somewhere last year I had found someone using an LE-01 on their Sportster. The LE-01 is $30 and the LE-03 is $70. So I bought the cheaper one and found out this week I cant make it work. I also found the other day a YouTube a video on using Sylvania LED load resistors on a Harley and they are $14 a pair. Those don't work either. So after a lot of wasted time and $45, I spent another $70 and ordered a LE-03 Badlands module tonight. Ugh G.B.

 

That looks really nice!
You and I seem to have similar problems when we buy. I am cheap, and sometimes thats not the best way to do it. Hope the other module works.

 

Thanks handirifle! Yeah, this time being cheap cost me $115 for a $70 module, LOL
Man, handirifle you just need to jump in with both feat and build your version of a Scrambler. Just do it! Tell me at least you are collecting parts? G.B.

 

My problem is I still want a touring bike for me and the missus to ride together. That is my priority. After that I may have to sell my current sporty to fund the project.

Unless a killer deal on a fixer dropped in my lap then.....

 

Sounds like a good plan! Touring bikes are cheap too right now. I have a 97' Electra Glide and just love it. Funny how both of my bikes are 1997's. Didnt plan it just worked out that way. However I so glade to have an Evo touring bike over a Twinkie. G.B.



I have the trunk on a quick-release set up and only use it on trips.