I kinda thought the same thing, but I have to say overall it is s very nice build. I am sure if/when I build one there be no shortage of "suggestions" from the forums. Given like that I have no issues because we all have our ideas of how they should look and function. Everything from. Carducci version to a total street bike with knobbies.
But yes, those things weigh almost a pound each. I like to fabricate stuff myself, but am limited to mild steel, so I am always curious how others do it, and why. One thing is pretty sure, that mount will withstand a drop or two.
I was able to find a little garage time thru the Holidays this week. Using Handirifle's idea, Thank you, I cut some thin wall 1" tubing and capped over the solid 7/4" frame slugs for the seat loop. Ignoring my sloppy welding, it does clean up the frame a little. I also welded on rear fender mounting tabs to the seat loop. I plan to use some rubber spacers with these mounting tabs. G.B.
GB I do think that looks more finished. I weld but am not a welder, but, I think you have your heat settings a little low. You will get better penetration and less globbing.
Mine does best when the heat is to the point that I CAN melt the base metal if not careful. Then its just a matter of finding the right speed of the wire and your moving. Seriously I watch youtube vids on it and they help. I too one semester of welding at a community college, about a hundred years ago, but what you learn does stay with you.
Get so scrap of the material your gonna weld and practice heat settings with it. You also probably know when working with two different thicknesses concentrate most of the heat on the thicker material and work it back and forth to the thinner, just long enough to melt the thinner as well.
handiriflie, I am not a welder either which is obvious, haha. My MIG is a 110V welder and I had the heat setting maxed out when I welded the fender tabs. My welder is only good for 1/8" thick material or less. The fender tabs are 1/4". That is why I had a friend weld the seat loop on with his 220V MIG welder. This was never going to be a show bike so I am not worried. Thanks, G.B.
GB I get it, but even the 110's will do good work. Try slowing the wire speed a bit and letting it burn deeper as you move the torch. Mine is also a 110, an old Campbell Hausfeld from Home Depot about 15 yrs ago. You can easily weld 1/4" but not in a single pass. Also, a tip, the flux core wire, will penetrate deeper, than gas shielded, at the same heat settings. I use flux core almost exclusively for that reason. You have more cleanup, but if I want penetration, I go flux core.
Don't get me wrong, I love this project, and believe me, I have made my share of mistakes, as I mentioned I am not a welder, I just use one.
Finally found some time to get back in the garage and work on the Sporty. I fabbed up a mounting bracket that will serve as the mount for the rack and the rear fender mounts. I tacked a couple pieces of 1" dia tubing and come 1" flat washers to a piece of steel. This will sit on the tabs I welded to the seat loop. The rear fender will use the same mounting bolts and sit up under the frame tabs. I bought some 1" solid rubber bushings that I will use as a spacer and mount the front of the rear fender to the original rear fender mounting tab on the frame. G.B.
Thanks but I did not make the rack. I just made the mounting brackets. The rack is "6-pack" style rack patterned after one from an 80's Honda ATC. I bought it from a guy off of FB who is making them in Chicago and it was a cheaper alternative than a used ATC rack.
I would call that bike you are interested in building a Cafe Racer. I like the bike a lot especially with the mono-shock swing arm mod. Not crazy on the color though. But it doesn't really matter what you call these things as long as you like it. What are you waiting for, just build it already. Life is too short, just do it Handirifle!
11-15-2019 | 11:18 AM
