Sportster Scrambler Project
#101
I just want something different than a bobber, etc. Something that maybe make people do a quick double take.
Ed
#103
Ed
#104
I gotta say, I do like these bikes, but did wonder about the weight, when off-road. Then I read an article in Road Runner magazine about the new BMWs and with the "adventure" model weighing in at almost 600lbs wet, I no longer feel that way. Still no feather. The beemer has quite a bit more power, 134hp and 105tq, but not sure it's really needed. It does have a 6 spd which would be nice on the sporty, in my opinion.
Someday I want to follow in the footsteps of you guys and build one from a sporty.
Someday I want to follow in the footsteps of you guys and build one from a sporty.
#105
Well I am 57 and still looking to tear it up. As I said earlier in my thread, I am looking to mostly bomb up and down the thousands of miles of dirt roads we have in Michigan on this Sportster. I grew up in Chicago and went to college in Southern Illinois. I swear that Oakland County in SE Michigan has more dirt roads than the whole state of Illinois. Roads I avoid on my EVO Touring bike. I have not seen another Scrambler running around the Detroit area yet but did see one for sale on Marketplace near here. G.B.
#106
Work has been slow on the Sporty with work and other stuff going on. I did fire the bike up with the new to me RSD pipe on it and found I definitely need to jet the carb. I thought it might be close since it seemed to run OK with the Vance and Hines Straight Shot exhaust it had on it when I bought it. But no. So I have a carb jet kit from CV Performance coming in the mail. I still have not made it to my friends house to weld the seat loop on. Hopefully next week. I did get a little garage time tonight and cut off and reshaped the factory rear exhaust mount bracket. This bracket was very close and could have caused a rub condition on my drive belt. It was the reason I was looking to mount an idler wheel but ran into issues with the Lowbrow Kerker 2 into 1 exhaust I had originally bought for the bike. Anyways, cutting down the exhaust bracket cleaned up the look and now I have plenty of belt clearance to the frame even thought you cant tell by the pictures. G.B.
This is the original rear exhaust bracket with the 2 mounting holes
I cut off the outside plate of the bracket and trimmed down and reshaped the inner plate. This way I could keep the original oil drain hose nipple mount.
Just need to touch up the one little cut off wheel mark and hit it with some spray paint.
This is the original rear exhaust bracket with the 2 mounting holes
I cut off the outside plate of the bracket and trimmed down and reshaped the inner plate. This way I could keep the original oil drain hose nipple mount.
Just need to touch up the one little cut off wheel mark and hit it with some spray paint.
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fergusoneddie (10-30-2019)
#108
GB
Is the seat loop tubing or solid. I assume tubing. If you want a real clean, factory look, you could cut a cap from a piece of the loop tubing and weld in in place over where you joined it to the main frame. Fill it in with welds and grind smooth and you will look very hard to see how it was done.
Looks very solid, coming from one that was a sceptic before. I'd say you are well on your way to achieving your goal. Looks fantastic. I am jealous.
Are the rear shocks 14"? How much ground clearance does it have? Did you say before, what fender/tail light setup you are going to use?
Is the seat loop tubing or solid. I assume tubing. If you want a real clean, factory look, you could cut a cap from a piece of the loop tubing and weld in in place over where you joined it to the main frame. Fill it in with welds and grind smooth and you will look very hard to see how it was done.
Looks very solid, coming from one that was a sceptic before. I'd say you are well on your way to achieving your goal. Looks fantastic. I am jealous.
Are the rear shocks 14"? How much ground clearance does it have? Did you say before, what fender/tail light setup you are going to use?
#109
GB
Is the seat loop tubing or solid. I assume tubing. If you want a real clean, factory look, you could cut a cap from a piece of the loop tubing and weld in in place over where you joined it to the main frame. Fill it in with welds and grind smooth and you will look very hard to see how it was done.
Looks very solid, coming from one that was a sceptic before. I'd say you are well on your way to achieving your goal. Looks fantastic. I am jealous.
Are the rear shocks 14"? How much ground clearance does it have? Did you say before, what fender/tail light setup you are going to use?
Is the seat loop tubing or solid. I assume tubing. If you want a real clean, factory look, you could cut a cap from a piece of the loop tubing and weld in in place over where you joined it to the main frame. Fill it in with welds and grind smooth and you will look very hard to see how it was done.
Looks very solid, coming from one that was a sceptic before. I'd say you are well on your way to achieving your goal. Looks fantastic. I am jealous.
Are the rear shocks 14"? How much ground clearance does it have? Did you say before, what fender/tail light setup you are going to use?
The welds are not show winning but we got real good penetration with them. 100 mph they will be fine! Its solid.
The shocks in the picture are the original stock XL883 shocks. I have a set of 13" Burly Stilettos but swapped them to weld on the seat loop. Once I swap the shocks back I can give you a ground clearance dimension if you are curious? G.B.
#110