Well, I got the new switch in, swapped the black cap with the chrome extended one. Installed it 3 times and CANNOT make the switch work when installed in the control housing. I tried everything, and made sure it was in the detents correctly. Just would not travel enough. I even tried heating and bending the extended tab where it was touching the housing. Nada. So I took the extended cap off and put the std chrome cap on the right side. Right now there is and extended one on the left and std on the right.

Not real happy with this setup currently. The switch seems to work just like the original did.

Then to top it off, somehow I shorted a wire when tightening down the clamp side of the front brake. This "little" project has been a freakin nightmare. I think I will look into cutting the long part of the extended cap off and glueing it on top of the standard one.......I think.

I have to buy some fuses tomorrow and fix the short.

Oh yes, all the other times I swapped caps, I never needed to cut the zip tie, but it seemed like I needed to on the extended. If at all possible do not do it. If you do, at least take a picture of how the wires are laid out in there before you do. Unfortunately, I did not. I think I have it right, now, but what a PITA. Am pretty sure I pinched the wires where the front brake housing closes on the cable. So have to take it ALL APART AGAIN tomorrow and check out the short.

I did figure a SLIGHTLY easier way to get the extended cap setup back in the housing though. Lol when I put the reg cap back on, it almost fell into place.

Too bad the stick on extenders are no longer available.

 

Sorry for your troubles. Sounds like a total PITA. Was using the originals really that hard? I have pretty small hands and the iso grips I changed to are bigger around than the stock ones I took off. I am not having any issues that would make me want to go through your painful exercise.
As stated elsewhere I do occasionally hit the left signal when going for the horn. I tried some extender for the horn button but it didn't work with the iso grips so I gave up on it. Although I hear they have made a design change that may work better.
Thanks for going through these issues so others don't have to without warning.

Some enterprising person with a 3d printer should be able to come up with some stick-ons that would work and maybe make some $ doing it.

 

Ironically the right side is the hardest for me to actuate. I know folks go both ways on this issue, but personally I wish HD had a single rocker switch on the LH side that would actuate either blinker. A lot easier for me to hold a cluch and push a button, than to work the throttle and hit the button, especially when down shifting, which is most of the time when turning.

Very hard for me to reach the RH turn signal switch.

I agree on the 3D printer. I am going to try superglue, but I am going to try it on some chrome plastic before trying it on the signal cap.

 

Well I am sorry to read you have had so much trouble.

I was also surprised to find the separate indicator switches. Operating the throttle and trying to press the button sees me revving the engine inadvertently when going slowly in first gear.

I had a go on a Yamaha a little while ago and the switch on that was push left or push right and then push in to cancel. I am not a fan of the way the self cancel works on my bike. With all of the roundabouts the signal is cancelled just when you want it on.

 

The self-cancelling feature is a real pain! I disabled it on my old Glide by simply disconnecting a white/green wire from the back of the speedo. Not sure if later bikes still use that wire. It's less of a problem with my Sporty, but still a bit of a nuisance. Like the older bike it decides to turn off when I want it to continue working - have to watch it like a hawk!

I'm a bit mystified by wanting to operate either switch when also changing gear or braking! Operate switch - change gear or brake - keep 'em separate!

 

Why don't/didn't you just get the Voice Actuated Turn Signals?

 

Mirror - Signal - Manoeuvre

Where manoeuvre is slowing the bike down, selecting the correct gear and then the actual turn or whatever.

It is just strange that out on the open road when I indicate to overtake everything is good (we overtake on the right hand side here so use right indicator to show our intentions), when I indicate for a right turn whilst in first gear it is not always as planned. The extensions have definitely helped me though.

 

I've never encountered a problem with the self-cancelling feature. Past bikes didn't have it so my up coming right turn still had the last left signal on. Had to buy a after market signal canceler for them.
I think it's just a matter of adapting to what you have available and dealing with it. That said, who doesn't want more / better conveniences?
@Andy. Can't imagine going around a roundabout in the wrong direction on purpose. LOL Do your drains also empty in the other direction from mine?
I agree with keeping things separate, can't remember having to operate turn signal while braking or changing gears.

 

I have mixed feelings on the self cancel but seriously would like single switch. As mentioned its not fun to reach for the turn signal and rev the engine, especially if am close behind someone

 

Well after discussing this with my wife at lunch today, she convinced me to try again, so I will order a other set of extended caps.

Question for you guys. Are the chrome caps thicker than the black ones? The main problem I had, once I figured out how to get the switch back in, was the thumbnail was too thick to allow the switch to operate. I ruined it with the heat gun trying to reshape it enough to work. No dice.

So if the black ones are thinner, I might try those. I do prefer the chrome on black though.