Turn signal extended switch cap replacement
#11
This all just seems like and alot of work and stress just to get an extra 1/4 inch of turn signal button. On my last 3 bikes i purchase from Amazon molded plastic turn extensions that installed with double sided tape over existing button, cost 15 bucks a pair in either black or chrome. They worked great and never had a problem with them falling off. Just saying.
#12
#13
Ok went back at it this afternoon. Tried to make it work with the broken tab. The tab I am referring to is at the bottom of the switch that holds it in the metal bracket it is permanantly attached to. Well supposed to be anyway.
Here I am holding the switch with the bottom up. Look just above my thumb and you can see the light gray area where the little tab broke off.
In this next shot you can partly see my Mc Gyver fix. I used JB weld to weld a piece of plastic to the base of the switch and the metal bracket. It is sitting with a warming lamp on it overnight to cure it.
I had to remove the chrome cap (again) to do this so I will have to re-install it again tomorrow. I am repairing it because, 1. I don't want to wait a week for a new one, and 2. There is nothing wrong with this one, except the tab I broke. I will probably purchase one online to have incase it does not hold up, then I won't have to wait for it.
I have used JB pretty successfully like this before, so I am hoping. Oh yes, I was browsing over the instructions that came with the extended caps, amd lo and behold and excellent drawing of the spring side of the switch, showing exactly how it goes. Duhhhh! I didn't even look before becauce I already knew how to change the cap.
This is where the tab goes thriugh the housing making it so difficult to re-assemble, for those that have never done this chinese torture test before.
Will post an update on my "fix" and hopefully install when I get back to it.
Here I am holding the switch with the bottom up. Look just above my thumb and you can see the light gray area where the little tab broke off.
In this next shot you can partly see my Mc Gyver fix. I used JB weld to weld a piece of plastic to the base of the switch and the metal bracket. It is sitting with a warming lamp on it overnight to cure it.
I had to remove the chrome cap (again) to do this so I will have to re-install it again tomorrow. I am repairing it because, 1. I don't want to wait a week for a new one, and 2. There is nothing wrong with this one, except the tab I broke. I will probably purchase one online to have incase it does not hold up, then I won't have to wait for it.
I have used JB pretty successfully like this before, so I am hoping. Oh yes, I was browsing over the instructions that came with the extended caps, amd lo and behold and excellent drawing of the spring side of the switch, showing exactly how it goes. Duhhhh! I didn't even look before becauce I already knew how to change the cap.
This is where the tab goes thriugh the housing making it so difficult to re-assemble, for those that have never done this chinese torture test before.
Will post an update on my "fix" and hopefully install when I get back to it.
#14
Join Date: May 2005
Location: A barrier island in NJ
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handirifle,
THANKS FOR POSTING THE VIDEO! Unfortunately, what I need is some clarity on the spring that is on the right side turn signal switch (I believe it is inside the cover). The right side turn signal switch only moves a little, and it will not work. I think it's because the spring came loose and is jammed inside the turn signal switch cover. If anyone has pictures/video/information on how to get to that spring, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you! Thanks again!
THANKS FOR POSTING THE VIDEO! Unfortunately, what I need is some clarity on the spring that is on the right side turn signal switch (I believe it is inside the cover). The right side turn signal switch only moves a little, and it will not work. I think it's because the spring came loose and is jammed inside the turn signal switch cover. If anyone has pictures/video/information on how to get to that spring, I'd sure appreciate hearing from you! Thanks again!
#15
The only way to get to that spring is to completely disassemble the rh control assembly. There are a couple things to keep in mind for the right side. IF you remove the front brake master cylinder/brake assembly be sure to keep the master cyl upright to keep air bubbles out. If you elect not to remove them, then make sure to block off the brake switch as mentioned in the HD manual.
The RH side is the worst in my opinion. There are three different sizes of torx screws, if you remove the brake assy. Otherwise just 2. The 20 removes the switch housing and I think its a 15 that holds the switch bracket to the switch housing. That screw is a bitch to get to.
Sorry to say there is no other way to reach that spring.
The RH side is the worst in my opinion. There are three different sizes of torx screws, if you remove the brake assy. Otherwise just 2. The 20 removes the switch housing and I think its a 15 that holds the switch bracket to the switch housing. That screw is a bitch to get to.
Sorry to say there is no other way to reach that spring.
#16
Here is a pic from the install instructions with the extended turn signal buttons. Note on the spring wrapped around the post. There is a leg of the spring that comes out near the base of the switch, that has a small 90* bend. That bend goes into a hole right about where it is shown in the pic. That tab sticking up behind it is part of the bracket assembly, that the switch is part of. Do not try to remove it from there. It is all one unit.
All of this is covered but the cap itself, but you can see it with the cap on, and if the spring is not right you can probably see that too. Personally, I doubt its the spring, most likely the switch. You might try lubing the pivot points of the switch and see if that frees it up.
Good luck.
All of this is covered but the cap itself, but you can see it with the cap on, and if the spring is not right you can probably see that too. Personally, I doubt its the spring, most likely the switch. You might try lubing the pivot points of the switch and see if that frees it up.
Good luck.
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