After watching this video:
I decided to do the same thing.
First, I had to locate a good machinist.
Second, I had to locate an OEM brake rod for my 2005 XL883 Standard. I wanted a second one in case things went bad.
I accomplished both and I have to fit this job into the machinist's schedule.
I'll post the results when the job is done.

 

I am going to make another from scratch, I have decided. I need to source the proper heim joint. I do not want to step down to 1/4" for the rod threads, even though that is what size bolt HD uses. My preference will be 3/8" female LH and RH threads at the rod ends, and 1/4" bore on the heim ball.

I need to make some calls to manufactuers on this. Once that is sourced, making them should be realatively easy. Will also need to buy a die holderfor the tailstock on my lathe.

If I can get the proper heim, then I will use stainless steel rods. Then I will tack weld a nut on the rod to allow it to be turned, with a lock nut at back end of a heim fitting.

I trust mine completely, but it does not look as nice as I hoped.

Let us know what you end up spending on your project if you will.

 

What is wrong with the ball end that HD used as opposed to a heim that you have to put a bolt through? No criticism, I am just asking here.

 

Well for my thinking you would have to use the factory rod since those ends are welded on. If doing it yourself thats easier than cutting, slimming (since the HD rod is larger than 3/8" dia) and threading. Plus as others pointed out, it would make a cleaner look in the end since only the tacked on nut would be the give away.

Using a heim joint, custom length rods can be made as well.

 

Oops I misread the post a little. I am not sure if those ball ends (ball bolts?) can be removed without damaging them. One thing that MIGHT be an issue, is if HD used that ball end to allow for a little more rotation without interference, than you get from a heim and bolt. Don't know that for sure.

 

Ok been fartin around with the multiple attempts to put extended turn signal switches on my bike (another LONG story), and finally got it roadworthy again to test my new brake rod.

HUGE difference for me. At 5'7" (at least I used to be) my feet sit on the mids in a slightly "toes up" position, so when I went to hit the brakes before, it was less than reassuring. My pedal sat level or slightly below the footpeg, and did not start applying brake pressure for the first 3/4-1". This meant toes pointing pretty far downward for solid pedal. This was not acceptable to me, especially wearing my boots, that start restricting ankle rotation at a certain point. Granted they are new boots but it wasn't really the boots causing the issue, it was pedal height.

Now my pedal sits about 3/4" above the foot pedal and is perfect for me. Instant application of the brakes. No more rolling the foot forward and hoping pretty soon it will feel solid.

As I mentioned before, I will build a new one, just to look better, but this told me what I needed to know. The pedal was way too low and it is fixable.

 

handirifle,

Your predicament was the same one that I have now. I used to be 5'7" but I seem to be shrinking with each checkup at the doctor's office. My goal is to be the same as yours. I have the NOS brake pedal rod for my 205 XL883 Standard and I'm waiting for my local machinist to fit the job into his schedule. In the meantime, I continue to ride with my right foot in the awkward position when I prepare to brake. It's a good thing I use my gears primarily for slowing down before using my brake for the complete stop.

Forward controls is not an option. My Honda Shadow has them and I can't ride for more than 30 minutes without my lower back killing me from riding in this slouch position.

It still irritates me that THE MOTOR COMPANY squeezed pennies on this part of my motorcycle. As I said earlier, my 31 year old Honda Shadow has this adjustment on the shift lever. It looks extremely inexpensive (not cheap) to manufacture for any application.

When my job is complete, I will post pictures and comments.

 

I ordered a die holder for my mini lathe so I will be able to make my cuts and threads exactly how they should be. I will post pics of the next one as well.

Looking forward to seeing how a pro job looks.

 

My bike came with forwards. They lasted about a month before I decided they had to go.

 

Ok my die holder for my lathe came in, and that thing works slick. It has a #2 morse taper that fits into the tailstock, with a 1/2" rod sticking out the other end, that the die holder itself slides in and out on.

The die holder will hold 13/16 and 1" dies. All mine are 1". I put the die in the holder, slide it over the rod sticking out from the tailstock, and put the rod to be threaded into the lathe chuck. My little lathe is not strong enough to turn the 3/8" rod in the cutting die, and the rod slips in the chuck. Thats ok, I just clamps vice grips on the rod and turn it that way. All the while being held in perfect alignment. I cut my 3/8" rod with 3/8 24 RH threads, for 1 1/4" to allow for a jam nut on one end. The other end will be 3/8 24 LH threads as soon as I get my LH die.

I will call Speedway Motors tomorrow to see if they can provide me with the end joints I want. I will post pics of it when I get it done. This one is using plain steel, but I will get some 3/8" stainless rod soon too.