Derby cover removal - stripped heads
#1
Derby cover removal - stripped heads
I have a 2011 XL1200c and need to change the trans and do a clutch adjustment. Problem is that two of the derby cover screws have stripped heads (I did that). I thought I would drill out those two screws, but I've never done that before.
I have a screw extractor and thought I could use that. And then rethread the hole if necessary.
Am I on the right track, or is there an easier way? Perhaps I can drill the heads off, remove the other screws and slip the cover over the two bad screws and then back them out with my fingers or pliers?
Thanks for any help.
-Doug
I have a screw extractor and thought I could use that. And then rethread the hole if necessary.
Am I on the right track, or is there an easier way? Perhaps I can drill the heads off, remove the other screws and slip the cover over the two bad screws and then back them out with my fingers or pliers?
Thanks for any help.
-Doug
#2
See if a metric allen driver will hammer in there. See if a torx bit will hammer in there. See if putting valve grinding paste on the correct size allen driver works. Get a welder and tack the allen driver to the bolt.
If you use a large drill bit you might be able to take the head off but leave a small stub of the screw. When you get the cover off you might be able to cut a screw driver slot in the bit that is left.
When you put it back together those screws need doing up gently to 90 in-lbs or 10Nm. Hardly any pressure at all.
If you use a large drill bit you might be able to take the head off but leave a small stub of the screw. When you get the cover off you might be able to cut a screw driver slot in the bit that is left.
When you put it back together those screws need doing up gently to 90 in-lbs or 10Nm. Hardly any pressure at all.
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; 02-04-2019 at 03:27 PM.
#3
There are several different extractors that should work.
I use one that looks like a reverse direction drill bit and an extractor of the same size. Generally while I am drilling the head off( in reverse) it will grab and the screw and it comes out without using the extrator at all. Any auto parts store should have what you need. Good Luck
I use one that looks like a reverse direction drill bit and an extractor of the same size. Generally while I am drilling the head off( in reverse) it will grab and the screw and it comes out without using the extrator at all. Any auto parts store should have what you need. Good Luck
#4
DON'T hammer, or weld anything over the old bolts. All you have to do is get a slightly larger (sharp) drill bit and zap off the rest of the head. Once cover's off, grab threads w/pliers and remove...they come off easy, then. For replacements, get SS hex bolts and you'll never have this issue again. Also, don't over-torque them too. Enjoy!
#7
DON'T hammer, or weld anything over the old bolts. All you have to do is get a slightly larger (sharp) drill bit and zap off the rest of the head. Once cover's off, grab threads w/pliers and remove...they come off easy, then. For replacements, get SS hex bolts and you'll never have this issue again. Also, don't over-torque them too. Enjoy!
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#8
#9
If you use a T27 bit you should never suffer that problem again, so having drilled the heads off, as already suggested, I would simply get a couple of genuine replacement screws. Having discovered that possible problem in good time I've owned Harleys with T27 screw-heads for almost 30 years now with zero problems and no replacements required.
#10
If you use a T27 bit you should never suffer that problem again, so having drilled the heads off, as already suggested, I would simply get a couple of genuine replacement screws. Having discovered that possible problem in good time I've owned Harleys with T27 screw-heads for almost 30 years now with zero problems and no replacements required.
Next hurdle is to figure out how to get my motorcycle jack under the bike so I can level it up.
Thanks again to everyone for the helpful responses.
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