Starting in winter weather
#11
Check your battery cable connections on both ends, both at the battery and the ground/starter. Make sure they are clean and tight.
I was having the same issue about 5 years ago and it got so I was carrying around a spare battery in the winter to jump start myself if the bike sat too long in the cold. (before the small jump start batteries) Then one day I stopped for gas and it would not restart even with jumper cables and a second battery. Lucky for me I was at a gas station right next to a HD dealer so I was able to push it over for them to look at.
And ditto on the not starting the bike up in the winter without riding it
I was having the same issue about 5 years ago and it got so I was carrying around a spare battery in the winter to jump start myself if the bike sat too long in the cold. (before the small jump start batteries) Then one day I stopped for gas and it would not restart even with jumper cables and a second battery. Lucky for me I was at a gas station right next to a HD dealer so I was able to push it over for them to look at.
And ditto on the not starting the bike up in the winter without riding it
#12
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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Here is a LINK to the 12 cell battery I have.
Good advice on checking all connections/using dielectric grease, and not running it for short periods in cold weather.
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#13
Antigravity ATX-12-HD-RESTART with 480CA
Warming the motor is one way, just don't stop and let it get cold. the battery just doesn't have enough cold cranking amps at 200 CCA, I finally bought an Antigravity with 480 CCA and it will spin it in all weather. That being said, it is not a good practice to start your bike in the winter months just to let it run, it is better to leave it sit till spring when you can run it, condensation forming in the crankcase is not a good thing.
Most years I just store the bike during the coldest months here in Connecticut but I like to ride if it gets close to 40* and no ice on the roads.
#14
Besides your battery seeming like it's ready for a replacement, running your bike for few minutes during winter storage is one if the worse things you can do to it. It's not getting to full operating temperature so Any condensation that has accumulated in your oil is not getting hot enough to burn off and by running it for short periods you're actually creating more condensation than if you just let it sit. Throw in some fuel stabilizer run it for a few minutes to get it hot and get that into the system, change fluids, hook up battery tender and kiss it good night. Get yourself a new battery for the spring and then you'll be ready to ride.
I'd add that a battery tender is a far better investment than a trickle charger. The problem with the trickle charger is that there's no regulation.
Fill the tank FULL. Put the battery on a tender and forget about it until spring.
#15
Great idea on the lithium! On my new (to me) 2004 1200 roadster I replaced the 3 yr old battery with a "big crank" which to my dismay has less CCA than the old battery and does the same starter stall mostly when hot. I can live with it as it always turns over on the second try--but I will purchase a "anti-gravity" brand lithium soon. The one pictured on Amazon has the 2 terminals on the top center, but on their website the newer models have the 4 connectors on the corners which would make an easier hookup. Santa has batteries in his bag--right?
Check the link.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...ry-cables.html
#16
I put in the 16 cell, with the small size of the battery and the top mounts it is much easier to put in than the stock battery. Your old tender will not be any use with the lithium battery, you shouldn't need it but I have one just in case. Due check your cables, the ground one especially, it is mount to the motor and sees a lot of vibration, you need to look under the insulation, mine was almost completely broke off.
Check the link.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...ry-cables.html
Check the link.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...ry-cables.html
#17
This is how I store everything that runs on gas and that sits for the winter. Fill it with gas and with Stabil and Lucas Injector Cleaner, or Seafoam. Plug it into the tender and leave it. If I start it, for what ever reason, then when I'm done I repeat. If it has a petcock I leave it open. Always want fuel in the bowl. A heat source on the block can help with a cold start if it's that cold. I run 20W50 in my scoots so no revs until they're warmed up real good. It's supposed to be in the mid 40's next week so there's a good chance I may just get to follow my own advice.. Cheers!!
#18
+1 on the Stabil--good stuff. I use it in my lawn tractor and garden equipment--and everything starts up just fine next spring. Being in N.Central AR, i don't put my bikes to bed because normally we can ride all winter (on select days). We have non-ethanol gas available here due to the many boat people in the twin lakes area and I prefer it for everything. My Sportster calls for 91 octane and I try to use the non-ethanol 93 except when I am on the road. 20/50 is what I prefer(synthetic) and a far cry from the old Harley 105 oil that the '60's XLCH used.
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