31 toothfront belt sprocket and 66 rear
#1
31 toothfront belt sprocket and 66 rear
I am thinking of changing my belt sprockets on my 2005 883 low sportster. Has anyone done the 31tooth front sprocket and the 66 tooth rear sprocket? Will my bike have enough torque for this combo? Does anyone know what the rpms will be at 75 mph? I ride solo
#2
#3
Your stock gearing is fine for that road speed, as is your engine. My 883 is just great at speeds up to around 90mph, which is as fast as I normally ride it. If you don't do so wear ear plugs when riding at that sort of speed, to improve your comfort.
Your stock gearing is 28/68, giving a drive ratio of 2.429:1. Changing to 31/66 will give you 2.1290:1, which is a change of 14%. In other words your engine revs at any given road speed will drop by that much, say from 3,000rpm to 2,630rpm. That's quite a lot IMHO, also unnecessary as already mentioned. Will your bike have enough torque? Yes, but you will probably find you have to change gear more often, especially when heading into a strong wind, or riding up a long steady climbing road, also to overtake.
Now if you were to fit a Hammer 1275cc kit......
Your stock gearing is 28/68, giving a drive ratio of 2.429:1. Changing to 31/66 will give you 2.1290:1, which is a change of 14%. In other words your engine revs at any given road speed will drop by that much, say from 3,000rpm to 2,630rpm. That's quite a lot IMHO, also unnecessary as already mentioned. Will your bike have enough torque? Yes, but you will probably find you have to change gear more often, especially when heading into a strong wind, or riding up a long steady climbing road, also to overtake.
Now if you were to fit a Hammer 1275cc kit......
Last edited by grbrown; 11-25-2018 at 05:13 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by grbrown:
hammer6315 (05-13-2024),
hardhat1 (04-16-2020)
#4
Plenty of torque, pulls any hill I ride on without any downshifting.
#5
gearing
Your stock gearing is fine for that road speed, as is your engine. My 883 is just great at speeds up to around 90mph, which is as fast as I normally ride it. If you don't do so wear ear plugs when riding at that sort of speed, to improve your comfort.
Your stock gearing is 28/68, giving a drive ratio of 2.429:1. Changing to 31/66 will give you 2.1290:1, which is a change of 14%. In other words your engine revs at any given road speed will drop by that much, say from 3,000rpm to 2,630rpm. That's quite a lot IMHO, also unnecessary as already mentioned. Will your bike have enough torque? Yes, but you will probably find you have to change gear more often, especially when heading into a strong wind, or riding up a long steady climbing road, also to overtake.
Now if you were to fit a Hammer 1275cc kit......
Your stock gearing is 28/68, giving a drive ratio of 2.429:1. Changing to 31/66 will give you 2.1290:1, which is a change of 14%. In other words your engine revs at any given road speed will drop by that much, say from 3,000rpm to 2,630rpm. That's quite a lot IMHO, also unnecessary as already mentioned. Will your bike have enough torque? Yes, but you will probably find you have to change gear more often, especially when heading into a strong wind, or riding up a long steady climbing road, also to overtake.
Now if you were to fit a Hammer 1275cc kit......
#6
#7
RPM/MPH Chart, All Sportsters
Includes all the available front pulleys (27-32) and the rear 66 tooth for the 2004-Ups:
https://e7a45847-d8f1-42d4-9b57-8adf...0b9a3ff417.pdf
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#8
keep in mind ur speedo will be off by 14% as well dont know about 05 speedo vss recalibration options im sure there are some used to be speedo healers you could get that wired into the vss your speed will read lower then it is actually at 75mph your speedo will show closer to 65 mph
Last edited by hardhat1; 04-16-2020 at 08:13 PM.
#9
Sportster Pulleys and Final Drive ratios
Your stock gearing is fine for that road speed, as is your engine. My 883 is just great at speeds up to around 90mph, which is as fast as I normally ride it. If you don't do so wear ear plugs when riding at that sort of speed, to improve your comfort.
Your stock gearing is 28/68, giving a drive ratio of 2.429:1. Changing to 31/66 will give you 2.1290:1, which is a change of 14%. In other words your engine revs at any given road speed will drop by that much, say from 3,000rpm to 2,630rpm. That's quite a lot IMHO, also unnecessary as already mentioned. Will your bike have enough torque? Yes, but you will probably find you have to change gear more often, especially when heading into a strong wind, or riding up a long steady climbing road, also to overtake.
Now if you were to fit a Hammer 1275cc kit......
Your stock gearing is 28/68, giving a drive ratio of 2.429:1. Changing to 31/66 will give you 2.1290:1, which is a change of 14%. In other words your engine revs at any given road speed will drop by that much, say from 3,000rpm to 2,630rpm. That's quite a lot IMHO, also unnecessary as already mentioned. Will your bike have enough torque? Yes, but you will probably find you have to change gear more often, especially when heading into a strong wind, or riding up a long steady climbing road, also to overtake.
Now if you were to fit a Hammer 1275cc kit......
Comparison of 28/68 to 31/66, in numbers, is right. The change results in a 13.6% change. But, this final drive ratio (31/66) is well within an acceptable performance range for the 883.
The "stock" final drive ratio (primary, 34/57 & drive pulleys, 28/68) is 4.07:1. The 31/66 final ratio is 3.68:1. For reference the final drive ratio for the 1200 (primary, 38/57 & drive pulleys, 29/68) is 3.52.
For anyone enjoying a 70 mph cruise rpm of about 3770, or 4850 rpm at 90 mph, the 28/68 final drive is great. But for those that prefer to cruise along at about 3300 the 31/66 pulley combination can get you there without changing the primary. And, if you want to drop another ~125 rpm, there is a 32 tooth front pulley available. Final drive ratio (34/57 primary & 32/66 drive pulleys) 3.46:1.
Increasing the cc doesn't lower the rpm, but it can sure get you to your cruise mph quicker!
The following users liked this post:
Iron Horse 13 (04-17-2020)
#10
A possibly better option would be to change the primary gearing to 1200 spec, this would require a 38t (vs. 34t) engine sprocket and a new primary chain...this would bump gearing up significantly (about 12%) but not cause a speedo error, cost would be about $150 or so.
For rpms at various speeds check out https://www.gearingcommander.com/
For rpms at various speeds check out https://www.gearingcommander.com/