Handlebars keep slipping
#11
09-18-2018, 09:13 AM
Road Warrior
The other thing to check is the screws are done up to the correct torque. I have found on some screws I would of stopped but a torque wrench showed I should of done a nut or bolt up tighter.
The FSM shows an order to do the screws up although I did mine to give an even gap on the clamp.
The FSM shows an order to do the screws up although I did mine to give an even gap on the clamp.
#12
09-18-2018, 03:02 PM
Cruiser
I use that stuff on my mtn bike seatpost. Does work. Didn't think to use it on my bike-with-an-engine.
Biltwell specifies why they don't knurl their bars, claiming less clamping power between the different materials (bars/clamps).
The chrome biltwell flyers I had liked to slip every time I hit a pothole. It was dangerous, near loss of control at 60+mph. Tightened the friggin' things down tighter and no more slipping. Was probably past torque spec, didn't care.
The new non-chrome tracker bars do not slip at all with less torque on the clamps. Anyways, that Park tool stuff above should work to cure what the OP is experiencing.
Biltwell specifies why they don't knurl their bars, claiming less clamping power between the different materials (bars/clamps).
The chrome biltwell flyers I had liked to slip every time I hit a pothole. It was dangerous, near loss of control at 60+mph. Tightened the friggin' things down tighter and no more slipping. Was probably past torque spec, didn't care.
The new non-chrome tracker bars do not slip at all with less torque on the clamps. Anyways, that Park tool stuff above should work to cure what the OP is experiencing.
#13
09-24-2018, 02:32 PM
#14
09-24-2018, 07:01 PM
Intermediate
Not saying you should do what I did but I made my handle bars and they did the same thing. Turns out the diameter of the clamp hole was a couple of thousandths larger than the tube I used to make my bars. The bar was 1.000" and I could slip a .0015" feeler gauge in at the front and back. So I laid the bottom side clamp on a piece of sand paper and deck it a couple of thousandths and put it back on with a drop of loc-tite on both side of the clamps. I tightened it enough that the gaps went away which wasn't crazy tight maybe a little more than 3/8 turn past snug. It has hasn't moved since I did that a year or so a go. Hope you get it straight, loose bars are no good.
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fernominal2011 (02-07-2023)
#15
09-24-2018, 10:55 PM
Cruiser
Used to use this trick for bearing races spinning in their carriers back in my dirt track racing days. Hook up some jumper cables to a battery and use a hacksaw blade or something similar like a welding rod to make some 'weld spots' on the bars. Just stick the blade for a quick second. Worked every time. Crude, but worked.
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fernominal2011 (02-07-2023)
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