Stage 4 upgrade or possibly stage 2
#2
The following 2 users liked this post by Switchback12:
apache snow (09-10-2018),
Brian1967 (09-11-2018)
#3
The following 4 users liked this post by cHarley:
#4
The following 3 users liked this post by mrhammer2u:
#5
#6
kit is fine but a hammer kit at the same price is probably better. Stage 4 kids t will not have your bike going much faster. Will run about the same. Stage 1 it then. Consider a second bike if you own it outright.
#7
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#8
+1 - Aaron from Hammer addressed a similar problem here with a 58mm just a few days ago.
Last edited by cHarley; 09-11-2018 at 04:03 PM.
#9
From Aaron...on the 58mm TB
OK so when that throttle body FIRST came out, I ordered one in, put it on a bike, put the bike on the dyno, and attempted to tune it. I immediately ran into an issue. The design of the throttle body was allowing the TPS to over-rotate before the throttle bellcrank would hit it's stop. So in other words, I'd be rotating the throttle open and the throttle position would be working fine, showing an ever increasing throttle percentage on the tuner, I'd get to all the way to 100% indicated on the tuner but the throttle bellcrank still hadn't hit quite hit it's stop, then when I'd turn the throttle to the stop, the throttle position indication on the tuner would all of a sudden jump to 0%. It's like they had put the throttle position screw holes in the wrong place, allowing the sensor to be over-rotated.
So what I did was adjust the cable such that the grip hit it's stop *just* before the TPS over-rotated and caused the throttle position to go to zero. I was then able to tune the bike. You might have your dyno guy give that a try.
The bike I was testing it on was capable of 120+hp, so this was a much hotter build than yours. I tuned it up, tested it, compared it to the stock throttle body, compared it to a ported version of the stock throttle body, ported it, tested it again, etc. At the end of the day, I pretty much decided it was a waste of money. A simple porting job of the stock piece actually beat the SE piece on the dyno, at a tiny fraction of the price. After porting the SE piece, it edged out the ported stock piece, but only just barely. And the ported HPI piece did better.
On top of that, the SE piece sticks out farther, and forces you into SE's air cleaner. And by the time you buy the thing and get their air cleaner, you've spent a big pile of money.
It's always baffled me that HD would include that throttle body on a package they claim makes 97hp. I mean, in my testing I've found that the stock piece can support 100+ hp without even breaking a sweat. Somewhere around 105ish hp, you start finding just a little bit by porting the stock piece. The value of porting the stock piece continues to climb as you build a hotter and hotter motor, but it's not even worth your time to do it until you're over about 105hp. So why the hell do you need or want a sewer pipe of a throttle body on a 97hp package? All it does is add a bunch of cost to the package. There are much better places to spend your money. But I digress.
OK so when that throttle body FIRST came out, I ordered one in, put it on a bike, put the bike on the dyno, and attempted to tune it. I immediately ran into an issue. The design of the throttle body was allowing the TPS to over-rotate before the throttle bellcrank would hit it's stop. So in other words, I'd be rotating the throttle open and the throttle position would be working fine, showing an ever increasing throttle percentage on the tuner, I'd get to all the way to 100% indicated on the tuner but the throttle bellcrank still hadn't hit quite hit it's stop, then when I'd turn the throttle to the stop, the throttle position indication on the tuner would all of a sudden jump to 0%. It's like they had put the throttle position screw holes in the wrong place, allowing the sensor to be over-rotated.
So what I did was adjust the cable such that the grip hit it's stop *just* before the TPS over-rotated and caused the throttle position to go to zero. I was then able to tune the bike. You might have your dyno guy give that a try.
The bike I was testing it on was capable of 120+hp, so this was a much hotter build than yours. I tuned it up, tested it, compared it to the stock throttle body, compared it to a ported version of the stock throttle body, ported it, tested it again, etc. At the end of the day, I pretty much decided it was a waste of money. A simple porting job of the stock piece actually beat the SE piece on the dyno, at a tiny fraction of the price. After porting the SE piece, it edged out the ported stock piece, but only just barely. And the ported HPI piece did better.
On top of that, the SE piece sticks out farther, and forces you into SE's air cleaner. And by the time you buy the thing and get their air cleaner, you've spent a big pile of money.
It's always baffled me that HD would include that throttle body on a package they claim makes 97hp. I mean, in my testing I've found that the stock piece can support 100+ hp without even breaking a sweat. Somewhere around 105ish hp, you start finding just a little bit by porting the stock piece. The value of porting the stock piece continues to climb as you build a hotter and hotter motor, but it's not even worth your time to do it until you're over about 105hp. So why the hell do you need or want a sewer pipe of a throttle body on a 97hp package? All it does is add a bunch of cost to the package. There are much better places to spend your money. But I digress.
Last edited by apache snow; 09-11-2018 at 04:22 PM.
#10
The 58mm tb come in the kit. Folks will sit here fussing about it till they are blue in the face, so what? They ain't riding your bike. You dont HAVE to use the 58mm tb.
I ran with and without it. There is a definite difference with it on the bike. Bike was no longer gasping for air, ran a little stronger throughout the range. You will be fine without it. I ran with out it for weeks. There was no I'll effect. I did notice the diff after i put it on, the bike could breathe better. Less gasping.
I'm not wasting time in some debate over it. If you dont want it, Dont get it/dont install it. Stick with stock or have hammer 'adjust' it. easy peasy.
I didnt care what folks thought when I installed it and definitely dont care now.... it's not even important to me anymore. I've moved on; life moved me on.
all this 'tune issue' crap is just that, crap. The piece is way better built than the stock TB. Sticks out farther but not big deal. Hammer covered it all a while back, They recommended porting the stock on over the 58mm version.
mine was dynoed on a dyno machine at the shop and tuned with a PV before that in my garage. Results weren't all that different. Let the nonsense stop. It not worth it if you get it separately, but it's in the kit.
is it worth scrimping and saving for? no. Will you notice a difference in your bike? yes, especially when twisting that throttle all hard.
I'm not just talking,
I did it.... threads to prove it. It's not that big a deal and it limits you to certain aircleaners that have matching mounting holes (the mounting hole locations are different on the 58mm) the backing or your need to mod the backing.
See here for more: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showp...&postcount=761
I ran with and without it. There is a definite difference with it on the bike. Bike was no longer gasping for air, ran a little stronger throughout the range. You will be fine without it. I ran with out it for weeks. There was no I'll effect. I did notice the diff after i put it on, the bike could breathe better. Less gasping.
I'm not wasting time in some debate over it. If you dont want it, Dont get it/dont install it. Stick with stock or have hammer 'adjust' it. easy peasy.
I didnt care what folks thought when I installed it and definitely dont care now.... it's not even important to me anymore. I've moved on; life moved me on.
all this 'tune issue' crap is just that, crap. The piece is way better built than the stock TB. Sticks out farther but not big deal. Hammer covered it all a while back, They recommended porting the stock on over the 58mm version.
mine was dynoed on a dyno machine at the shop and tuned with a PV before that in my garage. Results weren't all that different. Let the nonsense stop. It not worth it if you get it separately, but it's in the kit.
is it worth scrimping and saving for? no. Will you notice a difference in your bike? yes, especially when twisting that throttle all hard.
I'm not just talking,
I did it.... threads to prove it. It's not that big a deal and it limits you to certain aircleaners that have matching mounting holes (the mounting hole locations are different on the 58mm) the backing or your need to mod the backing.
See here for more: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showp...&postcount=761
Last edited by cvaria; 09-11-2018 at 06:09 PM.