Just got a 1200 Roadster 1200, ran pretty good but oil light flickers at low rpm, about 1300 rpm there was a definite knock. That's where I stopped it. Pulled engine, tore it down, rear cylinder piston oiling jet was broke off, and, was in chunks in the oil pump. So far, everything else looks good, but have not separated the crank/flywheel assembly yet. With that, this year bike, the crank pin in a press in, no nuts on either side. Is it possible once disassembled, to replace the pin with a different one, that does have removable nuts / for future service if needed....From what I have found, this crank pin IS NOT AVAILABLE separate, only as a complete crank assembly to the tune of about $1500 from HD. I will put a used unit back in it if I find mine is bad before I give that for a new one. And, no, rods do not feel loose, or too much play, in fact, when turned on the crank, there is a point where the rods bind. That's the reason I am going to disassemble it. Have not yet found the reason for the knock I heard. Everything has been what appears to be tight to specs and nothing loose or sloppy yet.
Anyway, thanks for reading...ideas? throw em out there........THANKS

 

Hammer Performance can rebuild your crankshaft if needed. ~$300-500
They also offer the 2008+ Roadster crankshaft (larger crank pin) ~$1000

http://www.hammerperf.com/xllowerend.shtml

 

Yeah, I have an idea. Price out this crank before you put money into your old one:



The big pin will make big end failures a thing of the past. The rods are made of the same material as was used in the 9000rpm XBRR factory race bike. And the big sprocket shaft will never twist off the way the regular small ones sometimes do. This is basically a racing grade crank.

It's a bolt-in if you buy these parts:

• 23999-08 flywheel assembly
• 30029-08 rotor/sprocket assembly (38T version for the XL1200)
• 4589 bolt
• 6445 washer

Google these part numbers and look at what they cost from the online discount dealers. I think you'll be surprised at the pricing. You can buy all this for probably what you'l spend rebuilding your stock crank, and your stock crank will never be as good.

 

Surdyke seems to have the best prices at $548 for the crank last time I checked.

 

Thanks for all the responses.................I will check it out and see where to go from here..........

 

Still looking at the options, but I AM going to get this crank apart and see what the issue is........I've never been much for having someone do the work for me, regardless of what it is, if its mechanical, I can and will fix it, if its repairable......if anyone has had one of these pressed ( no nut) cranks apart before and care to share your dis-assembly procedure please feel free...........I do not want to screw it up just in case it is repairable, but they are pressed in an odd way and I have not figured it out yet......Heat is an option, but so is ruining it..............?

 

If it’s rebuildable the factory manual should have disassembly and assembly directions.

 

Make a spacer or two, to sit in between the two flywheels.

Lay it down on the press

Push the pin out. It comes right out.

Darkhorse sells the parts. HD does not. HD does not consider it a serviceable assembly.

The trick is putting it back together, in true. You will need a truing stand. A lathe and some dial indicators will work as well.

 

 

Yea, im still looking at all the options out there..........just want to get this one apart and see if its rebuildable, or no.........and, as far as just making a few spacers, and pushing it apart, well, not as easy as it sounds like it outta be...ive done that, and with a 25 ton DAKE, it don't just come right apart....I know it will, just gotta get the right setup, and keep everything straight....im not givin up yet..................putting back together should be easier, other than the setup and trueing, which is just time and patience.......thanks, keep up with the ideas im still trying...........