I just joined, so pardon me if I break any rules.

My bike is a 1997 XLH1200S, 6300 miles, recent oil change and I pulled apart the carb and cleaned it, new air filter, haven't touched the fuel filter because the tank is full and I'm not really sure how to drain it.(tips on that would be nice)

I have a handful of problems hopefully none too complicated.

1st and foremost, after cleaning the carb I needed to jump the bike because it took awhile to get fuel back into the bowl (I don't know any other way to do so besides trying to start the bike) the battery cover is chrome and leaves the terminals exposed so i didn't remove it, the positive cable made contact with it and I definitely didn't catch it before something began smoking somewhere near the transmission.

the bike hasn't started well since, and I've had to jump it again already. I keep the battery on a maintainer which says it's still good but the bike doesn't seem to have enough power to start, maybe I fried the starter? I'm garbage at electronics and I can't afford a book just yet either. 50 bucks is a tad much for a manual methinks...

so that's problem one!








2nd problem bit more complicated to me. but it is the reason I am replacing my filters and cleaned the carb.

a few months ago I decided to run it to max speed on the highway, it only hit 96 before losing all power, I didn't regain throttle response until 60-70mph.
I'm a bit new to this bike still so I assumed 96 was just the top speed and it probably couldn't get enough fuel at that point to keep pushing, hence the slow response time.

now it struggles to go past 80 and while still fast it's acceleration seems sluggish, my mercury can pace it now which doesn't feel right... it's always backfired/popped when downshifting for braking so i consider that normal, when accelerating from a standstill it has a strange metal knocking sound. particularly after it's warmed up fully.

so those are my current issues, any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

If you read the rules as you were required when you joined, then you wouldn't have to worry about breaking them. Just saying.

Your post is just fine, by the way. No rules broken.

 

An inexpensive siphon from the local Walmart or auto parts store and a gas can to get the tank empty. Really no substitute for a good maual but very good information can be found here http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/start

 

 

I'm no expert but I have some ideas for you. Look at your positive leaf to your starter...sounds like you cooked it when you jumped it and now it won't carry enough amps to start the bike. That being said load test the battery. If you don't have a multi meter they're only about 30 bucks for one that'll get the job done and it will tell you how to test the battery in the instructions. A little popping once in while is acceptable..vert little...and alot is not normal. Even though you rebuilt the carb doesn't mean it's tuned right which would explain the popping, the backfiring, lack of top end power and more than likely that metallic sound when it's warmed up is called pinging...crappy tune on the carb. Hang tight because you'll get some help soon from some guys thst can really pinpoint your problems and help out alot. The factory service manual ...while expensive is worth every penny in information for a person who works on their own bike...dont feel bad I just paid 100 bucks for mine but it's on my coffee table for daily reading lol. Try boardtracker.com they are pretty competitive in prices for the manuals and parts. Good luck

 

The carb should refill by itself in a minute or so. The float just stops the flow when the bowl is full, and the vacuum from the engine pulls the fuel in when you go to start it. shouldn't have to crank it so much you need jumper cables. I just rebuilt the carb on my DR650. I just squirted a bit of engine starting fluid in the carb to help get it going as it's a kick start. As someone said, check the starter wiring. Look in the area the smoke was coming from. A wire might have melted. That'd be the first thing I do. And maybe take the starter out and try jumping it. look on youtube for a video. Possibly another thing you could do is turn the fuel off, pull the plugs, put the bike on a stand or something to get the rear wheel off the ground, and put the bike in first and hit the starter button and see if there's enough umph in the starter to spin the rear wheel. Pulling the plugs releases compression making the engine easier to turn because you have the added load of spinning gears in the trans and the rear wheel.

As for the lack of power, is the bike stock? If not, has the carb been rejetted to adjust for the mods? can you do a compression test? What color are the tips of the spark plugs? And chance to get a wideband on the bike? I put a wideband on mine to I know what my air fuel ratio is and it's a nice thing to have.

 

So much great info so far thank you guys!. I had the battery tested and it turned out to be bad, at least their tester at autozone says so. Bought a new Chrome brand battery for 60 bucks. If it's not the main problem then at least I've got something easy out of the way.

I do plan to get a manual but I need to wait on money first, it's not high enough priority to justify the cost yet lol.

once the battery comes in I can test more on the bike, until then I'll monitor this thread for anymore advice.

ah, I'm not sure what a wideband is. The bike is from my knowledge completely stock engine-wise
so it is probably set a little lean? I'm comfortable changing the jets but not comfortable with my limited knowledge and tools with choosing which jets to use.

but eventually I would like to add to this bikes power. The basics; exhaust, air cleaner, rejetting or even a new carb.

but I'd love to try upgrading the engine itself, only I have little to no experience in that area. But thankfully I'm in the right place.

 

whoa, whoa, whoa.....

If you can't afford a manual, or get tools, you don't want to be screwing around with a bike worth thousands. It will cost you way more in the end. Just wait till you get some more cash, and get someone who really knows the bike to do a diagnostic for you to tell you what is going on.

 

I dont have a compression tester. Or any other specialty tool. But I could pull the whole bike apart and put it together with the tools I do have. The bike was 3k when I bought it. Not particularly worried about an expensive machine.

I said the manual isnt a high enough priority to justify throwing down 50 bucks on it. 30 sure but 50? No.