Hello all, I recently did some work to my 2016 sportster 1200 including ported heads and intake, SE high comp. pistons, SE 575 cams, SE beehive springs, air cleaner, and exhaust. Shortly after it began to overheat while I was out of the country. It made it back home but at one point I shut it down, noticing the temp nearing 500 degrees. Though there was no ticking after this work was done, it began to tick after about 200 miles. I'm assuming this was due to the overheating. Ultimately I think it was an issue with the tuning: I was using the fuelpak 3. After a complete teardown I replaced the pistons/jugs with a 1250 kit, installed new cam bushings, and closely looked everything over. Also, I went with a powervision this time. The ticking still remains. It is primarily on the left side of the engine and is most noticeable under no load when coming down from higher rpms (revving to 3500 and letting off, whether in gear or not). It is also getting up to 350 degrees while breaking in the new kit and it is starting to score again. When it was tore down, I measured the crank runout to be 9 thousandths at the end and the rods had quite a bit of side to side rock, but no up and down. I currently have adjustable pushrods on the way and will be installing them within a week. Ive checked for rocker box clearance and cracks in the heads; all good. My question is, is it reasonable to assume the crank and/or rod bearing clearance are causing this issue? Thank you very much for the replies in advance Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

Side to side on the rods is not a problem. There should be NO up and down movement. What about lifters. Who did you get the 1250 kit from and did they send you a tune for your power vision.

 

Got stock lifters again after the overheating to try to eliminate ticking. Did not work. The kit is from Hammer and they did give me a tune to run on it.

 

Try here for more help http://xlforum.net/forums/tags.php?tag=xl1200

 

Over heated a VW once, when it was cooled back down the valves were so far out of adjustment it was nuts... the heat changes dimensions of stuff, I would look at lifters, and the adjustable push rods will help loads. Also the roker lokers that DK sells...

 

350 head temp is not hot. If you followed Hammers break in instruction and used their tune you should not be getting any scoring. I have installed a few of hammers kits with out any issues. I had some intermittent ticking on my last build that was a lifter not pumping up as it should. A set of S&S premium lifters fixed that. Now mine is really quiet. Have you discussed this with Aaron or Dan. They are great to work with. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the replies. I forgot to add that I did install the rocker lockers and the noise remains. The scoring of the new Hammer kit was done when I was using the fuelpak 3 so I'm hoping now that I have the power vision it will be better; just need to figure out this noise. I have talked to Dan and Aaron and I think the tune is settled. I'll put the pushrods in and let you guys know how it does. If they don't help, I can only assume its the crank or rod bearings or wrist pin bushings or something like that. Thanks again for the replies!

 

500 deg where?

 

Fuelpack 3 has messed up more bikes than yours. There are example all over the internet about this. Saving money is not always the best way to go. Hope you get it straightened out.

 

I would assume head temps. I can only imagine what oil temp that high would feel like under your butt in the oil tank.

John