I took off my speedometer cover to get to my ignition switch. The voltage for all is still 13.2 whether the switch is on or off.
I conducted a test to where I put a wire from the battery negative terminal and touched it to the area located in the image below. When I did that I saw two lights come on (turn signal maybe...not sure with the cover off, but wanted to run in here and let you guys know). I attached the diagram from the original ignition switch that was on the bike (not the new one I have, but it is built the same). When hooking this up I wired it exactly as it was before.
Based on what I found, is it safe to say that the ignition switch isn't grounded correctly? I didn't want to hold my self made ground wire to it long because it would create a small spark every time. What do you all think?
I can't see any reason for a Ignition switch to be grounded. From what I can see in your diagram, the ground wire runs from the motor mount to one of the mounting screws for the ignition switch. The ground wire does NOT go to a terminal on the Ignition switch. If the ground wire goes to the mounting screw, the It may be used to ground the dash plate so that the indicator lights for turn signals & high beam work. It may also be grounding the speedometer back lights.
Last edited by 14GuineaPig; 06-13-2018 at 07:25 PM.
The only wire on the ignition switch that should have power with the switch "off" is the red wire coming from the main circuit breaker. The other wires only get power when you move the switch. I would trace those other wires if they are "hot" because something is wrong.
The only wire on the ignition switch that should have power with the switch "off" is the red wire coming from the main circuit breaker. The other wires only get power when you move the switch. I would trace those other wires if they are "hot" because something is wrong.
Perhaps you have the wire from the main circuit breaker connect to the wrong terminal on the switch?
The only wire on the ignition switch that should have power with the switch "off" is the red wire coming from the main circuit breaker. The other wires only get power when you move the switch. I would trace those other wires if they are "hot" because something is wrong.
Perhaps you have the wire from the main circuit breaker connect to the wrong terminal on the switch?
John
The power wire is hooked up where the diagram is showing.
The other two wires from the ignition switch go to the breakers, all of which are reading 13v.
Yes, it did run. The initial issue was my carburetor and I fixed it then went to start the bike and all of this started happening. Before I went to fix the carb the power worked fine.
I am thinking about taking it into a shop, but ultimately I want to fix it myself since I have invested so much time. Testing for electrical issues is new to me, so just trying to learn along the way.
If all those wires are hot to the breakers, are they hot after the breakers? If they all have (+) on one side (but nothing happens), then there must be no ground for them on the other side. The fact you ran a wire from the (-) of the battery and got a circuit. Basically, an open circuit sounds like your problem. Have you checked that ground strap wire from the battery (-) to the stud on the engine (should be above transmission) Have you cleaned the contacts on both ends, battery and engine stud? Have you checked that ground wire for corrosion?
There are some smaller grounding wires down by your rear brake switch, check them too, one may be broken. If you have power to the breakers, then there is no ground on the other end of the line.
06-13-2018, 06:08 PM
