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Rear brake pad change

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Old 03-16-2018, 08:51 AM
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Default Rear brake pad change

I have a 2016 1200C. The service manual says to disconnect brake line from rear caliper then remove caliper and then change brake pads. Is their a way to do this without disconnecting that brake line. I am trying to avoid bleeding the brake.
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Old 03-16-2018, 09:19 AM
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If your bike is around 2 years old you should bleed your brakes as a routine. However I don't ever recall disconnecting a caliper just to change pads. By all means remove it from the mounting. Which service manual do you have?
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by harleyrider4300
I have a 2016 1200C. The service manual says to disconnect brake line from rear caliper then remove caliper and then change brake pads. Is their a way to do this without disconnecting that brake line. I am trying to avoid bleeding the brake.
Thanks
you dont need to remove the line. Just:
  1. open the master cylinder,
  2. take the caliper off,
  3. fully spread the pads to push the pistons back in the caliper,
  4. clean the parts up with a toothbrush and brake cleaner,
  5. install new pads,
  6. reinstall caliper on mount,
  7. *bleed*
You want to bleed when replacing pads and, as mentioned, you may want to bleed anyway since the fluid is probably old and nasty. It's not hard at all.

Maybe get some speed bleeders and prepare to have your mind blown. You can bleed in less than 3 minutes. I dont know the speed bleeder set part number for your bike but, someone may chime in.
 

Last edited by cvaria; 03-16-2018 at 09:50 AM.
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Old 03-16-2018, 10:04 AM
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Very easy to do as described above. When I changed my rear pads, the process was very similar to the one posted by cvaria. However, I did not brush or use any brake cleaner as it all seemed very clean but it is good practice to do so anyway.
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by cvaria
[*]fully spread the pads to push the pistons back in the caliper,
It is better to open the bleed screw and spread the pads. Trying to force the fluid back to the master cylinder can blow your master cylinder seals.

John
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 10:34 AM
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^+1 . This is the method I use on my race car. It too makes spreading the caliper much easier.
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by John Harper
It is better to open the bleed screw and spread the pads. Trying to force the fluid back to the master cylinder can blow your master cylinder seals.

John
whatever gets them spreading. (My bar mantra.. all class )
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cvaria
whatever gets them spreading. (My bar mantra.. all class )
Yes, I have read several posts on xlforum.net about blown rear MC due to forcing fluid back.

John
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by John Harper
Yes, I have read several posts on xlforum.net about blown rear MC due to forcing fluid back.

John
never had it happen and up until 2014, thats what service manuals say to do. Maybe that could be why they changed it.



i paraphrased the manuals and added the tooth brush/brake cleaner and left out caliper grease because I know people will pitch a hissyyfit about it. I use it in my pad backings and pins after checking for pitting and sanding/replacement if.
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:32 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. Guess I am going to get a break bleeder
 


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