I agree the best method of connecting wires is to solder, however I use those taps and never had a problem with them.
IF you have single element two wire (hot and ground) LEDS, then this is how I was told to wire mine:
"With the input side wired. You will need to wire the output side as follows:
Black Wire: Black ground to both of your Led Lights
Green Wire: Red Hot on Right Led Light
White Wire: Red Hot on the Left Led Light
Blue: Not Used
Yellow: Not Used
Red: Not Used
Run Brake and Turn signals go over the one wire to each side (Green and White)."
Do you have LED turn signals on both front and back? If so, you may need an equalizer....there is a post that Kevin noted when to use one. Perhaps do a search.
I removed my stock rear lights altogether. I removed and covered the 2 connectors that they ran to under the seat. I attached my module to the main wiring harness and followed the directions exactly as instructed. I even face timed with a DK electrical expert to try and diagnose the problem. I have yet to figure out what's going on but I'm told that the way I set up the module and wired my R-B-T LED tail light to that module is correct. I have not tried to solder everything together like suggested but shouldn't the lights function properly with the posi tap connectors?
Is it possible that I need to replace some wires? connectors? tsm? I'm not sure where to go from here.
Also, according to the instructions that came with the light and module, I should not need a load equalizer with my current setup.
Try asking DK about load equalizer....this is what Kevin told me:
"• If you have a 2014 or later, you do NOT need a load equalizer.
• If you have a 2013 or earlier, & are running the stock rear turn signals, you do Not need a load equalizer.
• If you have a 2013 or earlier, & you're running LED rear turn signals, but keep the stock front turn signals, you do NOT need a load equalizer.
• The Only time you need a load equalizer is if you have a 2013 or earlier, And have LED turn signals up front and in back, and do not keep any of the stock turn signals, then you will need a load equalizer.
So, since you are running your stock turn signals, you do not need a load equalizer."
Try asking DK about load equalizer....this is what Kevin told me:
"• If you have a 2014 or later, you do NOT need a load equalizer.
• If you have a 2013 or earlier, & are running the stock rear turn signals, you do Not need a load equalizer.
• If you have a 2013 or earlier, & you're running LED rear turn signals, but keep the stock front turn signals, you do NOT need a load equalizer.
• The Only time you need a load equalizer is if you have a 2013 or earlier, And have LED turn signals up front and in back, and do not keep any of the stock turn signals, then you will need a load equalizer.
So, since you are running your stock turn signals, you do not need a load equalizer."
Thanks for the help. Ya, that's the information Kevin gave me as well. Seems as though I shouldn't need a load equalizer, I'm just not sure what else it could possibly be.
Update: I reinstalled the stock tail lights and tried them by themselves, with the tail light alone, and with the tail light + the module. something is not right. I recorded a few videos. Hopefully someone out there can point me in a direction that doesn't cost $150/hour.
Video 1: Original Problem (stock lights removed completely
When right blinker is turned on, the left stock running light shuts off. When the left blinker is turned on, the right running light stays lit but the left stock light flashes quickly. The left light doesn't illuminate at all when the brake is applied.
When the new LED tail light is wired directly into the blinkers on the main harness, the Blinkers work fine. But when I try to connect the module the blinkers stop working. That said, I don't think it's a bad tail light.
I've also checked the fuses multiple times as well. At this point I don't mind troubleshooting more and replacing parts but I'm just not sure what to try next.
I subsequently removed my turn signals and replaced the taillight with a LED with integrated turn signals...works the same without the off timed turn signals.
Me...I still think its the module or the wiring, but what do I know.
You think so? Even though I've tried 2 modules? At this point I was thinking that it's a TSM problem. I just learned how to check codes so I'll see what I can dig up tomorrow.
You think so? Even though I've tried 2 modules? At this point I was thinking that it's a TSM problem. I just learned how to check codes so I'll see what I can dig up tomorrow.
Just to confirm...you still are running your STOCK turn signals, right?
03-14-2018, 10:08 AM
