Checked it, fuse looks good. Tender is charging new battery so far. Thanks

 

You need to do a parasitic drain test, very simple.

Disconnect negative cable from battery, connect meter (set for amps), one probe to the cable, the other probe to the battery terminal, all switches off.

This will tell you how much amperage draw is on the battery, you can disconnect fuses one at a time to find out which circuit is the problem, troubleshoot from there.

 

here are my readings using the Battery Tender 081-0157 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with LCD Voltage Display
was about 50 degrees

 

That looks normal to me.
Batteries go dead because:
You left something on
You have a bad battery
There is a drain in the circuit
You have a bad rectifier/regulator if Alt equipped
You have a bad regulator if generator equipped

Low /No charging

Bad battery
Bad rectifier/regulator or mechanical regulator, missing ground
Bad stator or grounded stator

 

If you're getting 00.00 from either of the terminals in that plug to ground then the stator is grounded and needs to be replaced.

00.00 ohms means there is no resistance between those two points which means there is a connection between the engine case and the stator. It's the same as touching the multimeter leads to each other...no resistance/direct contact.

If you're getting OL from that same measurement then the stator is fine.

The .02/.01 drop is normal...call it "statistical noise" if you will or slight meter error. Most meters will do this unless it's a higher end that is real well calibrated.

I hope that makes sense.

 

When I place both leads inside the stator plug round/orange cable, I get .02, then it drops to .01 and then 00.00 if I keep on holding the leads inside the plug. Its normal for statistical noise to drop to 00.00? I use a Fluke multimeter.

Im getting OL when I place 1 lead inside the plug and another lead on the ground bolt. Can you please confirm if OL is same as infinite resistance?

Thanks

 

Review post number 12.
Parasitic drain test.
Do you have an electrical item that consumes electricity when the switch is OFF?
For example a USB adapter that gets power at all times from battery will consume power even if a device is not plugged into the unit.
It changes the 12 volts from battery to 5 volts at all times.
Did you alter some other electrical device that might remain ON when bike is OFF...light in a tachometer gauge ?, some kind of light circuit that is back feeding power? Some kind of module for altering light functions?

 

It is not...they are opposite of each other. 00.00 means there is 0 resistance. So if you've got both leads going into that plug, you're measuring the resistance of the stator itself. Those two holes in the plug are the ends of the same long *** winding (that's pretty much what a stator is) so in that case, you should not be getting any resistance which means the long *** winding is still intact.

If you're measuring from the plug to a ground, you should be getting OL from both plugs because now you're basically measuring if that long *** winding is touching the case anywhere.

In other words...

If the two holes on the plug measure 00.00 against each other and each hole measures DL against ground, then the stator is fine.

 

Oops. I posted in wrong thread.