Has anyone measured the sound with a decibel meter? I have Cycle Shack slip ons on my 09 XL1200 Low and they put out 93 dB at idle. Although I like the sound, the volume is too much for rides longer than 15 minutes in my opinion so I wind up wearing Plugfones ear plugs and listen to music.
I decided on Khrome Werks 3" HP+ in tapered chrome, which mimick the factory mufflers in appearance (which I like) yet replace the stock bike's sewing machine exhast note with a deep rumble and nice tone. Their cost is a little higher than the usual suspects, but I don't mind paying a little more for an easy fit-up, great workmanship, a perfect finish, and that s-o-u-n-d. Shown below on my '09 Iron:
Has anyone measured the sound with a decibel meter? I have Cycle Shack slip ons on my 09 XL1200 Low and they put out 93 dB at idle. Although I like the sound, the volume is too much for rides longer than 15 minutes in my opinion so I wind up wearing Plugfones ear plugs and listen to music.
Cycle Shacks are good slip-ons. You can lower the tone (which is easier on the ears) and increase the low and mid range torque with some Thunder Torque Inserts™.
Ran the Cycle Shacks with TTI's in my Sporty for over 3 years.
I went to sleep last night thinking about your situation. I decided this weekend I will be be drilling a 5/16" hole in a stock slip-on and then try to install a TTI and see what happens.
Kevin
This weekend I drilled a 5/16" hole in a sporty factory slip-on.
I then proceeded to work the TTI into the hole. It did not go easily, and in the end it ended up distorting the hole, fatiguing the metal.
I tried to get some pics...did not turn out so well, but you can see that working the Stainless Steel stud into the hole did not end up well.
It has been over 5 years since we wrote the instructions saying to drill a 3/8" hole. This exercise reminded me why we wrote in the instructions to use a 3/8" hole.
This weekend I drilled a 5/16" hole in a sporty factory slip-on.
I then proceeded to work the TTI into the hole. It did not go easily, and in the end it ended up distorting the hole, fatiguing the metal.
I tried to get some pics...did not turn out so well, but you can see that working the Stainless Steel stud into the hole did not end up well.
It has been over 5 years since we wrote the instructions saying to drill a 3/8" hole. This exercise reminded me why we wrote in the instructions to use a 3/8" hole.
Kevin
Thank you for the info and time trying it out! I will make sure to use the 3/8" bit when I put TTI's in my straight shots this time around. The holes in your pictures look identical to the holes in the pictures I posted. This must have been the cause of my pipes cracking. Thanks again I greatly appreciate it! Guess I shoulda read the instructions more closely and followed them. You live and learn huh?
The sharp edges that result from drilling through metal material, unless broken (chamfered or rounded via a file or abrasive), will always create a starting point for cracks, even moreso when these holes are located in a high vibration environment such as a motorcycle exhaust system. Also, the addition of a fastener, acting as a heat sink, will effect how the base material reacts to the changes that are associated with repeated heating and cooling cycles (expansion & contraction), with the surrounding area reacting at different rates to these heating and cooling cycles, exasperated further by the material around the hole being compressed by a fastener.
The sharp edges that result from drilling through metal material, unless broken (chamfered or rounded via a file or abrasive), will always create a starting point for cracks, even moreso when these holes are located in a high vibration environment such as a motorcycle exhaust system. Also, the addition of a fastener, acting as a heat sink, will effect how the base material reacts to the changes that are associated with repeated heating and cooling cycles (expansion & contraction), with the surrounding area reacting at different rates to these heating and cooling cycles, exasperated further by the material around the hole being compressed by a fastener.
Hi Kev!!
Makes sense. I'm still hesitant about installing TTI's in my current slip-on's. Having to drill out the existing baffle holes has me worried about them cracking in the same manner.
Last edited by Bowhunter8607; 11-15-2017 at 10:24 PM.
This weekend I drilled a 5/16" hole in a sporty factory slip-on.
I then proceeded to work the TTI into the hole. It did not go easily, and in the end it ended up distorting the hole, fatiguing the metal.
I tried to get some pics...did not turn out so well, but you can see that working the Stainless Steel stud into the hole did not end up well.
It has been over 5 years since we wrote the instructions saying to drill a 3/8" hole. This exercise reminded me why we wrote in the instructions to use a 3/8" hole.
Kevin
Decided to try again with the TTI's. Ordered a pair of the 158 TTI's to install in my straight shots with the baffles removed. I'll be sure to follow the instructions this time to hopefully avoid the previous results. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
Decided to try again with the TTI's. Ordered a pair of the 158 TTI's to install in my straight shots with the baffles removed. I'll be sure to follow the instructions this time to hopefully avoid the previous results. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
11-04-2017, 10:48 AM
