Holy sh*t can you believe it I havent posted in like 2 months!? Could the sporty be running that strong for that long? Thanks to you nerds - yes...yes it has!

Electrical has given zero issues, lights are all working and shes strong as ever. But now I need a bit of advise from you vets-

My back brake isnt worth a damn, and im getting a groaning sound when holding it down - i feel it must be time.

My thought is to do the front as well.

And while Im at it shes running 14 year old spark plugs. Im a horrible father.

So I started shopping, talking to my boys and the local dirtbags ( my boys ), and Im getting this and that, those and them..so I figured Id open up a discussion about the best way to spend this next $100.

So what do you guys say? What pads are the best bang and same on the plugs? And do I even go for wires? Im at about 400 miles a month. TYIA and happy mother effin #merica day!!

 

If you don't already have one, buy yourself a factory service manual! It will spell out service schedules and how to do everything your bike will normally need. That includes bleeding your brakes, changing pads if necessary, etc. Every time you use it, it will pay you back!

 

My $.02

1. Yes, do both sets of brake pads.
2. Shop online...pads are pretty much "dime a dozen" and anything out there, unless you plan to race bike, works.
3. Plugs are same as brake pads...stick w/stockers.
4. Wires, unless bad/damaged, you're good there too.

Seems like you stay on the "as needed" side so keep w/this mentality and ride-on!

 

your going need some beer

 

spark plugs are 5/8 socket.
Spark plugs Type 6R12--- or whatever you want to stick in there after people wax poetic on it---- http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/hd/6R12

• Gap 0.038-0.043 in. (0.96-1.09 mm)
• Torque 12-18 ft-lbs (16.3-24.4 Nm)

anti-seize on the threads.

dielectric on the boots
plug wires are probably fine, change if you are feeling froggy

inspect calipoer and all that funst
the brake lines are "supposed to be" replaced every few years, as they wear out. your call there.

bleed both front and rear brake fluid if it hasn't been done in last 2 years.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post15456978

rear pads are super easy.

• remove cap from rear MC
• use a flathead screwdriver or something similar to spread the outer pad as far from the disk as you can
• use the flat head again to remove the pad pin cover
• remove the allen head pad pin. manual says stick a drill bit through the pads to keep them from dropping out. inspect for unreasonable wear... chips, gouges, etc... replace if too gnarly. clean it up with fine grit can paper if not
• slowly remove and replace pads one at a time. inner pad first and try not to knock out the enraging guide clip and make sure the feet (3) are in the guides at the bottom of the caliper mount
• reinstall pad pin...torque 131-173 in-lbs / pin cover torque 18-25 in-lbs
• bleed.