Well after 10 years and 29,oooKM (18,000 Miles) my front forks were pretty soft so I finally ordered the springs and picked up some SE fork oil and figured on spending half a day or so on this but to my surprise I was done in 2 hours.


18,000 Miles


With the weight on the old springs only 3" of travel left.


Needed to use a bit on a ratchet to remove drain screw without stripping it.


Protected disk, wheel and tire from splashing.


Ten year old oil, boy does it stink! (like old gear oil).


Can't get to the fork caps on my bike as the bars are in the way.


Easiest thing is to just unbolt the risers.


Easy access for the 1&3/8" socket, had to use an adapter to fit a 1/2" drive ratchet. Be sure to use paper towel so you don't damage the chrome on the nut.


Old spring extended about 2" above fork tube.


Old spring on left and new Progressive and spacer on the right, (spacer still has to be cut down).


SE fork oil.


Factory spec 345ML new fork oil.


Compress the forks fully before adding new oil.


Pour in the new oil, save some until you check the level by measuring.


Level must be 5&1/2" from the top of the fork tube, this is important as the Progressive springs might displace more oil than the stock springs so don't just use the amount in your service manual.


Have to cut the spacer to 2.25" for my model (1200R)


Cuts easily on a miter saw. Mark the end you measured so you don't end up installing the cut off piece by mistake.


Jack bike back up so front wheel is off the ground and install new spring with tight coils to the bottom.


Add washer and then the spacer cut to size.


New spring and spacer almost level with the top of the fork, this was good as it made it super easy to get the fork cap back on.


Torque cap to 50FT/LBS, be sure to use paper towel so you don't damage the chrome on the nut.


A bit of blue loctite on the riser bolts.


Install riser bolts.


Now have 4&1/4" when I set the weight on it for the first time.


After test ride and things have settled in 4".

Test ride results: Really handles a lot better, it now takes the big dip type of bumps much more comfortably but it is very stiff on the small jaring bumps. I am so used to the old soft springs it may just be a matter of getting used to it, if not I may change out the oil to a thinner oil like the stock oil. I did upgrade to the heavy duty Progressive springs and wonder if I should have stayed with the standard duty ones. Overall very happy with the way the springs and new fluid handle the bumps and frost heaves that we have a lot of at this time of year.

 

Thanks for Sharing....Your process is very informative!

 

Nice write up!!

 

Awesome, great write up! I was actually considering upgrading my fork springs because of the brake dive I get on mine. Probably do the standard duty springs.

 

You saved a lot of money doing it yourself....and it's done right!
Nice post with lots of pics & information....good job!

 

Very helpful, thanx. I will be changing fork oil soon. BTW does anyone know which is lighter: HD Type B or HD Type E fork oil?

 

This was my favorite thing I did to my dyna with 39mm front end. Handling was improved and it made pavement seams disappear.

 

Thanks for the great write up!. I am getting ready to do the same thing to my Sporty this weekend. I had a couple questions in my mind that you answered nicely. Thanks for taking the time to do the write up.

 

Good write up. I did the Progressive Monotubes on my 2017 XL1200T. Made a big difference. OEM suspension on /Sportsters was not my cup of tea.

 

Also put Progressive 12.5" 412s on back. Much nicer ride.