I've read tons of posts about lowering the Sportster. Before some tall person asks why, let me say my inseam is 28".
I think I've narrowed to two options. Stock 11 3/4 shocks with Tamarack 1 3/4 lowering block. Or. 11" Progressives with 1" lowering block. Both will give me the drop i'd like.
Which would give me the better ride? I know longer shocks while standing on my toes at stops would give the best ride, but i'm looking to compromise.
I'm also dropping the front. My 06 custom currently has an unladen seat height of 28" and that's with a low profile solo seat. couldn't imagine it with less padding.
Thanks for any input in advance and again, i'm sorry to post yet another question on lowering the rear.

 

Appears you want to drop the bike to 10"....you need to consider the travel on the shocks or you will bottom out. I had 10.5" Burly slammers (no lowering blocks) and did not bottom out but the strut bolts rubbed against the side of the tire so had to adjust alignment. IMO being at 10" and having travel of taller shocks may be problematic.

I am also vertically challenged. You could also consider increasing the height of your soles. I did this when I went with 12" air/oil shocks for better ride. I just purchased 11" Bitubos that have better rebound/dampening and comparable travel to the air/oil shocks. Bitubos have 33% more travel than stock. I bought it just to lower me so I can plant both feet and get better feel of the road (to keep the wheels on the ground)...and it can be ordered in chrome...lol

 

I'am only 5'7 with a 28-29" inseam also . Although I can easily flat foot my 883 Iron I wanted to be lower to the ground also. Read my review of the Le Pera bare Bones seat. Might be easier than going with new shocks ?

Purchased a Le Pera Bare Bones Solo seat for my 2016 883 Iron. Bought online from a company called 2Wheel in Ca. Ordered yesterday and arrived here in Pa today, free shipping . $196.00 and $10.00 off if you sign-up for their News letter . Came to $186.00. Next best price I could find was $202.00 . No instructions came with the seat . After removing the factory seat you will need to move the rear fender threaded trunion with a plastic C-clip to the forward most fender hole . Use a zip tie to feed into place. I just let all the air out of the rear tire in order to get my hand under the rear fender. This is why Le Pera needs to supply instructions with their seats. Seat comes with a heavy gauge vinyl which is riveted into a steel base and covered with a carpet/felt material on the underside. Note there is no keyhole in the center of the bottom of the seat where a post on the bike slides into like on the factory seat. . There are only two contact points for securing the seat, the front tongue and rear fender bracket . There are rubber foot pads on the underside of the seat that contact the seat frame . The Harley factory seat has a tongue and frame made of plastic.The Le Pera's tongue and seat frame are metal . Maybe this is why Le Pera does not have the keyhole in their seat. I used red Locktite on the two screws for the rear mounting bracket. The cheap Chinese pot metal they use seemed very soft and there were only a couple of threads for each screw in the seat pan. I'am only 5"8 and this seat put me closer to the ground and a little more foward. Makes you feel like your more seated in the bike . There is no lip at the back of the seat so you may slide back . This is a very small seat, so if you have a fat *** you may find yourself pouring over the sides. I think the seat looks alot better on the bike than the stock seat. ThanksHad a chance to get out and try the new Bare Bones seat the other day. Here in PA the temp got up to 45 degrees F. We have really bad roads here in Western PA and I did not notice the bumps and holes anymore with the Le Pera seat verses the stock Harley seat,even though the stock seat appears to have much more padding. Noticed that the seat gets you down on the frame more and a little more forward. Also my thighs were not forced outward unaturally like on the stock seat. With the stock seat I found myself constantly readjusting my seating position but not with the Bare Bones seat. Would not want to ride cross country on this seat but that is not what it was designed for .

 

How were the Burlys? i read they're pretty stiff. Also, though probably not wise, i'd be riding in sneakers most of summer. I can actually flat foot now but i can see myself with a thicker seat if i can talk my lady friend into riding with me. Glad it's winter in a way, so i don't have to make a quick decision. I like the solo seat on my bike but haven't actually ridden it. It may be uncomfortable. I have been looking at two up seats or solo with pillion.
I'm also in Pa so have plenty of time to figure this out. Probably don't have to go so low. could start with 1 inch lowering block and if i need more then go to a shorter shock. thanks for the input.

 

The answer you don't want to hear is, you don't need both feet down. One foot is enough. Lowering a bike is detrimental to handling and comfort. Your best compromise is finding a lower seat.

And don't ride in sneakers please, that's how people loose feet.( My sister almost lost a few toes as a kid in a pocket bike crash, sneakers)

 

Agree with Yamaharley on both fronts, try the seat first. Also I'am a RN with 26 years experience and worked some time in the ER. Most injuries that I treated were foot, ankle and legs. No tennis shoes ever while riding. Even the Harley guys who dress like Pirates wear some type of boot. Someone mentioned higher heals. Well there is your answer, boots with a higher heal that go right below the knee and a new seat. Cannot remeber what year your Sporster is but my 2016 883 Iron has the new improved updated rear shocks. Really a good quality shock that I have already adjusted the pre-load based on the chart in the owners manual and using the tool under the seat. Thanks

 

I'm 5'9", and have a 29" inseam. I ride Progressive 412's that are 12", and a LePera Barebones. I can flat foot my 2009 Iron, and stand over my seat with a couple of inches in the crotch. The Barebones seat is lower and thinner (side to side), so your legs won't have to be spread as far apart. And, it moves you a bit forward, which would make forward controls easier, if you're in the market for them. (Mine has mids, currently. Forwards are on my list.) For full disclosure, I don't do more than 50 or so miles on any given day. If you're a road trip type, the Barebones might not be for you. But, it's more comfortable than stock, so YMMV.


Later!

 

Increase the sole/heal of your "boots" and get a low profile seat.

I use a mustang wide tripper solo with backrest and passenger pillon with sissy. Low profile solo and a passenger with sufficient padding for comfort.
You can get it with or without backrest and with or without pillon.






Burlys are stiff. You will feel head jarring bumps and pot holes. You will also scrape your pipes when doing hard or sharp corners. It's okay for town riding but not recommended for longer rides or two up.

 

Dr. Martin Ironbridge steel toe. I am 5'6, 27-28" inseam and 67 yrs old. Those boots combined with a Mustang runaround seat allow me to flat foot my 2016 Road King.

Find the right boots, and the right seat, and forget all the suspension mods. It will be a better bike, and you will have no problem handling it.

 

Agree entirely. In 50 years I've hardly ever been able to 'flat-foot' - that is a modern affliction! Look into sturdy thick-soled riding boots, to give you a little extra reach and also good grip.