SBS Project - Sportster Chop w/ Lots of Photo's
#361
10-15-2017, 06:44 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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#362
10-15-2017, 07:02 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,733
Received 4,199 Likes
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2,440 Posts
Friday we decided to tackle laying out all the electrical to make sure we were getting all the components needed.
This is the factory wiring diagram for the bike.
We spent a couple of hours understanding everything....
...so we could figure out exactly what we could do away with...
...so we knew what we had to have.
This is what we came up with-
The only thing we kept that I wasn't planning on was the bank angle sensor. It feeds back an 11 volt negative, and rather than figure out how to short cut that (we've tried before, unsuccessfully), we're just going to use the factory sensor.
There are other ignitions that don't need that 11 volt negative feed, but the ignition I have works, so we're going with it.
The new wiring diagram will feed everything that's going on the bike. The only things that are not going to be on the bike that are factory are:
1. Horn
2. Accessory switch
3. Starter button
4. Less idiot lights
5. Planning on just rear turn signals, although with the Illum Pro III we can easily add front turn signals
I can't think of anything else right now
The pared down wiring will have self canceling turn signals, front and rear brake light, running lights, flashers, on/off switch, kill switch, high low beam toggle, oil light, & neutral light.
It will have a manual solenoid starter button.
We did more on Friday, but am out of time right now, will continue soon.
Kevin
This is the factory wiring diagram for the bike.
We spent a couple of hours understanding everything....
...so we could figure out exactly what we could do away with...
...so we knew what we had to have.
This is what we came up with-
The only thing we kept that I wasn't planning on was the bank angle sensor. It feeds back an 11 volt negative, and rather than figure out how to short cut that (we've tried before, unsuccessfully), we're just going to use the factory sensor.
There are other ignitions that don't need that 11 volt negative feed, but the ignition I have works, so we're going with it.
The new wiring diagram will feed everything that's going on the bike. The only things that are not going to be on the bike that are factory are:
1. Horn
2. Accessory switch
3. Starter button
4. Less idiot lights
5. Planning on just rear turn signals, although with the Illum Pro III we can easily add front turn signals
I can't think of anything else right now
The pared down wiring will have self canceling turn signals, front and rear brake light, running lights, flashers, on/off switch, kill switch, high low beam toggle, oil light, & neutral light.
It will have a manual solenoid starter button.
We did more on Friday, but am out of time right now, will continue soon.
Kevin
Last edited by DK Custom; 10-15-2017 at 09:17 PM.
#363
10-16-2017, 12:41 AM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,733
Received 4,199 Likes
on
2,440 Posts
The other thing we worked Friday on was the rear axle spacers, & a fender mounting bung.
We don't have a motorcycle jack or lift at the shop...Devin and I both have one at each of our home shops.
We both thought the other had brought theirs in.
No problem...
...we used 2x4's.
This mounting bung was too long...
...so we removed the rear wheel, and cut it off to length.
These three points are where the fender will mount to the frame.
We thought we had the spacers right months ago....but when we looked at it Friday, it was obviously off...and we could not find any combination that set it right.
So we started from scratch.
The tire is now dead centered. The chain is almost straight, but we can't move the wheel over that last 3/32" of an inch. So we will be milling just a touch off the front sprocket to get it in line with the rear sprocket.
Bungs are in line, and this is very close to how the fender will be mounted...
There will be a Run-Brake-Turn LED on the underside of the fender, above the tire.
Next week we will put an additional support on the underside of the fender, then drill it and bolt it up.
Kevin
We don't have a motorcycle jack or lift at the shop...Devin and I both have one at each of our home shops.
We both thought the other had brought theirs in.
No problem...
...we used 2x4's.
This mounting bung was too long...
...so we removed the rear wheel, and cut it off to length.
These three points are where the fender will mount to the frame.
We thought we had the spacers right months ago....but when we looked at it Friday, it was obviously off...and we could not find any combination that set it right.
So we started from scratch.
The tire is now dead centered. The chain is almost straight, but we can't move the wheel over that last 3/32" of an inch. So we will be milling just a touch off the front sprocket to get it in line with the rear sprocket.
Bungs are in line, and this is very close to how the fender will be mounted...
There will be a Run-Brake-Turn LED on the underside of the fender, above the tire.
Next week we will put an additional support on the underside of the fender, then drill it and bolt it up.
Kevin
#365
10-16-2017, 06:41 PM
The other thing we worked Friday on was the rear axle spacers, & a fender mounting bung.
We don't have a motorcycle jack or lift at the shop...Devin and I both have one at each of our home shops.
We both thought the other had brought theirs in.
No problem...
...we used 2x4's.
Kevin
We don't have a motorcycle jack or lift at the shop...Devin and I both have one at each of our home shops.
We both thought the other had brought theirs in.
No problem...
...we used 2x4's.
Kevin
Up here on the northern side of the Mason-Dixon line, we would call that Yankee ingenuity, but we do not want to offend our southern cousins!
#368
10-21-2017, 06:00 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,733
Received 4,199 Likes
on
2,440 Posts
lol, we just make do with what we got.
Kevin
#369
10-21-2017, 06:00 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,733
Received 4,199 Likes
on
2,440 Posts
#370
10-21-2017, 06:18 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
Posts: 17,733
Received 4,199 Likes
on
2,440 Posts
So we got a good amount done yesterday, even though we only ended up with 3 hours to work on the bike.
First thing we did was get the tire ready for fitting the fender-
Took a look at it from all directions...
...making adjustments to get it...
...sitting symmetrically over the tire.
In theory it seems like a simple task, but getting it an even distance from the tire, front to back on both sides, then an even distance from the center of the tire, top to bottom....lol, it can be a challenge.
Once we got it how we wanted, we measured, in mm, how much distance was needed between the bungs and the fender, taking into account the leather washers that will be used between fender and bung, as well as the thickness of the powder on the frame and the paint and clear on the fender.
The bottom left bung was perfect.
The top left bung needed just a bit taken off...
Note the welding aprons covering all chrome and powder finishes. The top right bung needed more taken off...used the cutoff wheel first, then the finisher.
Next up was marking where the pilot holes need to be drilled for the fender bolts.
If we get these wrong, then the fender is not going to be straight over the tire. X marks the spot.
Pilot holes drilled.
More in next post.
First thing we did was get the tire ready for fitting the fender-
Took a look at it from all directions...
...making adjustments to get it...
...sitting symmetrically over the tire.
In theory it seems like a simple task, but getting it an even distance from the tire, front to back on both sides, then an even distance from the center of the tire, top to bottom....lol, it can be a challenge.
Once we got it how we wanted, we measured, in mm, how much distance was needed between the bungs and the fender, taking into account the leather washers that will be used between fender and bung, as well as the thickness of the powder on the frame and the paint and clear on the fender.
The bottom left bung was perfect.
The top left bung needed just a bit taken off...
Note the welding aprons covering all chrome and powder finishes. The top right bung needed more taken off...used the cutoff wheel first, then the finisher.
Next up was marking where the pilot holes need to be drilled for the fender bolts.
If we get these wrong, then the fender is not going to be straight over the tire. X marks the spot.
Pilot holes drilled.
More in next post.