2016-17 Rear light problem
#1
2016-17 Rear light problem
So I just recieved my rear cut fender brake LED light for my 2017 Sportster Iron 883 .
I wanna change it because the canadian model is really gross in my opinion (a big square sticking out of the rear fender !?!?!).
I wanna keep my original turn signal for now , but there is one problem .
I will have no problem wiring my brake light but for the turn signal I will ...
The turn signals wire in wired inside the brake light (see picture below).
So if I get rid of my original brake light how im I suppose to wire my turn signals . Is this new on sportster model ?
When I bought my harley at the HD dealer the guy told me I cant wire wires like older models like cuting the wire and wiring it with electrical tape again anymore ... I dont know if thats true .
Is there anything im missing ?
Sorry for asking many question on this forum but you guys are the only ressource I have since I dont even know anyone even owning an HD bike .
Thanks !
(purple lines = LEFT & RIGHT turn signals wire & Red = Wire going to under my seat connections ) .
I wanna change it because the canadian model is really gross in my opinion (a big square sticking out of the rear fender !?!?!).
I wanna keep my original turn signal for now , but there is one problem .
I will have no problem wiring my brake light but for the turn signal I will ...
The turn signals wire in wired inside the brake light (see picture below).
So if I get rid of my original brake light how im I suppose to wire my turn signals . Is this new on sportster model ?
When I bought my harley at the HD dealer the guy told me I cant wire wires like older models like cuting the wire and wiring it with electrical tape again anymore ... I dont know if thats true .
Is there anything im missing ?
Sorry for asking many question on this forum but you guys are the only ressource I have since I dont even know anyone even owning an HD bike .
Thanks !
(purple lines = LEFT & RIGHT turn signals wire & Red = Wire going to under my seat connections ) .
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DR.M3TAL (11-04-2016)
#3
#4
2014 and up use the Canbus system.
I cut the turn signal wire and lengthen them.
It did throw a code when I tried to use the turn signal before final connection.
Made the final connection, cleared the code, and it never came back.
Been working great for the last 5,000 miles.
I cut the turn signal wire and lengthen them.
It did throw a code when I tried to use the turn signal before final connection.
Made the final connection, cleared the code, and it never came back.
Been working great for the last 5,000 miles.
In the worst case what can happen ?
#5
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DR.M3TAL (11-07-2016)
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CANbus shouldn't throw codes for most things if you crimp/solder properly. The voltage differential through a good crimp-solder is nearly identical to the original wire.
It's usually only an issue if you add in a lot of extra resistance to the system, i.e. smaller wires spliced in bigger wires (obviously a no no), adding a significant load to a power wire, SRS on autos, etc.
A good splice, however done, should be negligible. That said, I've seen some of "Previous Owner's" electrical work and splicing, and that guy sucks...don't be like that guy. Do your crimp/solder the proper way!
On other notes, it's funny, your 2017 rear tail light looks eerily similar to my 2002 tail light. Same set up, albeit no CAN wiring here.
It's usually only an issue if you add in a lot of extra resistance to the system, i.e. smaller wires spliced in bigger wires (obviously a no no), adding a significant load to a power wire, SRS on autos, etc.
A good splice, however done, should be negligible. That said, I've seen some of "Previous Owner's" electrical work and splicing, and that guy sucks...don't be like that guy. Do your crimp/solder the proper way!
On other notes, it's funny, your 2017 rear tail light looks eerily similar to my 2002 tail light. Same set up, albeit no CAN wiring here.
Last edited by Scuba10jdl; 11-04-2016 at 05:55 PM.
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