I have a cranks no start condition and i am wanting to test my ignition coil but i am getting conflicting information on what the ohm specs are for my 2006 Sportster 883. First post after being a reader. I hope i did not break any rules.
those coils rarely fail...from what I read the module in the nose cone fails due to heat. you can look at it an see if it's oozing. also check all the grounds.
Coil primary and secondary resistance specs. should be in your factory manual. Primary will be about 0.5-0.7 Ohm, and secondary something around 5500-7500 Ohm.
Last edited by Scuba10jdl; 09-27-2016 at 09:18 AM.
Will i lose fluid and/or need a gasket when opening up the nose cone? And what module are referring to? Is that an ignition module? I do not have a manual do you guys know how to test the ignition module?
Last edited by 2006Sporster; 09-27-2016 at 10:36 AM.
Will i lose fluid and/or need a gasket when opening up the nose cone? And what module are referring to? Is that an ignition module? I do not have a manual do you guys know how to test the ignition module?
STOP - 2004 and later Sporties do not have nose cone modules. Your 06 has an ICM (ignition control module) and it's located under the seat. An ICM failure is fairly rare and would be pretty low on my the suspect list.
STOP - 2004 and later Sporties do not have nose cone modules. Your 06 has an ICM (ignition control module) and it's located under the seat. An ICM failure is fairly rare and would be pretty low on my the suspect list.
Yeah i just found this out from more research haha. Do you know if those coil ohm specs are accurate for my year? I am having a hard time troubleshooting my issue with so much conflicting information on the internet
I am trying to find the appropriate steps in diagnosing cranks but wont start (no spark) Assuming those specs are accurate then my coil is good and not sure what to check next
The coil spec's are correct.
Another suspect is the CKP (crank position sensor), they do go bad, but usually the bike just runs poorly when they start to fail. It's below the oil filter when looking at the front of the bike frame. The CKP tells the ignition when it's time to fire.
The coil spec's are correct.
Another suspect is the CKP (crank position sensor), they do go bad, but usually the bike just runs poorly when they start to fail. It's below the oil filter when looking at the front of the bike frame. The CKP tells the ignition when it's time to fire.
Any clue what the specs for the CKP are? I found a link to where i can buy and download a service manual for $10. Ever heard of that being successful for anyone?
Any clue what the specs for the CKP are? I found a link to where i can buy and download a service manual for $10. Ever heard of that being successful for anyone?
Unless you have an Oscilloscope and know how to use it, there is really no GOOD test for the CKP. Last I checked a couple of years ago, a CKP ran $55-$60, and I can change one in ~10 minutes. I've replaced 4 of them on my 2004 during the first 100,000 miles.
Harley does not sell or license digital copies of Service Manuals. Any you find listed are illegal copies and forum rules forbid them being discussed here.