I pulled my spark plug wires off a couple weeks ago and the metal collar inside one of them stayed on the plug. I immediately assumed I broke the wire. When I looked inside the boot, I could see that the conductor was still tightly positioned around the jacket the up inside the boot, so I pushed the wire & boot back on the metal collar and it seemed to be OK.

The wires are chrome braided, something a previous owner put on. Thinking I needed new wires, I ordered a new set for around 50 bucks.

In the meantime, I've ridden 600 miles, and the bike hasn't missed once. The new wires finally arrived, 10 days later, but I don't even know if I need them at this point. I could use the $50 elsewhere.

From what I've read about people making their own wires, it sounds like mine should be fine as long as I don't pull it apart again. Just looking for some feedback.

 

swap them out. peace of mind/safety.


like i said when you mentioned it. it sucks and and i've been there. rather lose $40 than lose 100+ on a tow... or worse


i hamfisted (me and corrosion) my dynas right forward foot peg/brake mount. i spent money to have the situation fixed with an exploded bolt removed and helicoil... as a temp fix ONLY BECAUSE the part was on back order nationwide. i ordered a new that will be here pretty soon... i will go out and properly fix it. i could have saved $29 bucks an been cool with the temp fix... until it decided to be not cool and fail at 100% the wrong time and causing god knows what kind of havoc. put those new new cables on and keep it moving. don't play around with stuff like that. money comes; money goes. hell, i'll send you $50 to put it behind you.(not joking)

proof of the pudding:

 

If they are after market or owner fabricated, the spark plugs boots are often separate "sleeve-like" pieces that slip over the wire and metal connector. You could crimp the wire more securely with a crimping tool. As long as the wire is properly crimped on the metal connection it will be fine. And, as you said, in 600 miles there are working as they should.

 

My front SE plug connector separated the other day too. I just re-crimped it really good and it seems to hold fine now. I bought a spare set of Taylor wires from Summit Racing for under $20 delivered. Next time I pull the tank I'm swapping out the orange SE's for purple Taylor wires.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...s/model/xlh883

John

 

Thanks guys. After watching this vid of how a quality wire is crimped, I don't have much confidence in my pressed back together wire.

 

 

Yup. . . well, now if you choose to, you can crimp the connector ( or buy a new connector ) back on and be set to go !

 

Well I installed the new wires tonight. The metal collar stayed on the plug again, that wire was definitely compromised.

The rear cylinder wire was a bear. I ended up using duct tape (oh the horror!) to tape the spark plug end of the new wire to the coil end of the old wire, and carefully pull/push it through the wire channel. Oh, I did have to take the rear bolt off the gas tank and raise it about an 1-1.5".

Once I got it pulled through I was congratulating myself on my genius, until I found out it's really challenging to push the wire on to the coil, because there's so little of the boot to grip. That took a few different forms of trial and error until it clicked.

My rear plug wire goes across the rocker box. There's no evidence of melting or any damage to the old wire, but I just don't like it there. There's just so little room between the rocker box and the bottom of the tank. is this normal?

If anyone feels like posting some pics of what you have, go for it. Oh, for the first time, I envied you coil relo guys. You can change wires with one hand while holding a beer in the other!

 

total PIA to change the rear wire. the wire is built ford tough. nothing to worry about.

did you put a little dielectric grease on the plug boots/top of outside portion of the plug?

 

Oh yes.