Torque Bit Size for Rear Shock Fasteners
#1
Torque Bit Size for Rear Shock Fasteners
My apology for this lame question, but I need to buy the correct torque bit size for the rear shock bolts. I have a lot of tools and my bits are either slightly too small or too large for the shock bolts....and I changed the shocks before so must have used the wrong size when I was a rookie wrencher..lol. Don't want to strip the bolt so need to get the correct size. T50 is too small & T55 is too big - I don't have anything between these two sizes...does anyone have the correct bit size so I can pick one up....is there a torque bit between these sizes perhaps T52?
Oh and please don't tell me check the service manual cause I did, and there are no fastener sizes in there. Thank you....just received my SG air/oil shocks and prepping for removal of the old and installation of the new.
Oh and please don't tell me check the service manual cause I did, and there are no fastener sizes in there. Thank you....just received my SG air/oil shocks and prepping for removal of the old and installation of the new.
Last edited by hscic; 08-08-2016 at 09:52 PM.
#2
A T50 fits mine just fine. My torx set is Husky. A T55 is way too big. Hopefully your bolts haven't been previously messed up by using too small a bit., or someone trying to cram an allen wrench in there. If you have a cheap Chinese made set, you might try getting another T50. If it's the bolt that's messed up a little, a couple things you can try are putting some grinding compound on the bit, or, if you have some real thin shim (like copper sheet) or metallic gasket material, put some over the hole and pound the bit in.
There actually are T52 bits, but I've only seen that number in catalogs, never in a store. If a T50 is loose, might be able to pound a T52 in.... if you can find one.
There actually are T52 bits, but I've only seen that number in catalogs, never in a store. If a T50 is loose, might be able to pound a T52 in.... if you can find one.
#3
A T50 fits mine just fine. My torx set is Husky. A T55 is way too big. Hopefully your bolts haven't been previously messed up by using too small a bit., or someone trying to cram an allen wrench in there. If you have a cheap Chinese made set, you might try getting another T50. If it's the bolt that's messed up a little, a couple things you can try are putting some grinding compound on the bit, or, if you have some real thin shim (like copper sheet) or metallic gasket material, put some over the hole and pound the bit in.
There actually are T52 bits, but I've only seen that number in catalogs, never in a store. If a T50 is loose, might be able to pound a T52 in.... if you can find one.
There actually are T52 bits, but I've only seen that number in catalogs, never in a store. If a T50 is loose, might be able to pound a T52 in.... if you can find one.
Last edited by hscic; 08-08-2016 at 11:02 PM.
#4
I just did mine and I used a T50. It has a little play.
The following users liked this post:
hscic (08-08-2016)
#5
#7
Mine is what I'd call a slip fit with a little play, but tight enough for confidence. Good to hear yours worked ok. If you ever think a T25 feels a little loose, be sure to try a T27; that T25 has caused grief for a lot of Harley wrenching, because it almost fits a T27 bolt..
Trending Topics
#8
When you need to take it off, drill the head off - you can save a fraction of an inch on the remaining stud by knocking the weakened head off with a punch - and with the pulley off, might be able to grip the stud end with vise grips. Should be locktite on those bolts, heat them up first if you have a heat gun, soften the locktite. If there isn't enough stud to grip, a good welder with tig or mig can tack a rod on the end of the stud (which really loosens the loctite and breaks rust free) to grip and turn. I've seen a lot of bolts removed using both methods.
The following users liked this post:
hscic (08-09-2016)
#9
When you need to take it off, drill the head off - you can save a fraction of an inch on the remaining stud by knocking the weakened head off with a punch - and with the pulley off, might be able to grip the stud end with vise grips. Should be locktite on those bolts, heat them up first if you have a heat gun, soften the locktite. If there isn't enough stud to grip, a good welder with tig or mig can tack a rod on the end of the stud (which really loosens the loctite and breaks rust free) to grip and turn. I've seen a lot of bolts removed using both methods.
https://www.denniskirk.com/performan...8.prd/2808.sku
#10
Bought this tool to remove the pulley bolts...impact driver. Didn't try it yet so not sure if it works
https://www.denniskirk.com/performan...8.prd/2808.sku
https://www.denniskirk.com/performan...8.prd/2808.sku
The following users liked this post:
hscic (08-09-2016)