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Weigh in on 1250. NRHS or Hammer Perf?

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  #21  
Old 05-05-2016, 01:46 PM
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wow ! cow pie tossing contest anybody !??!

I got a 1250 kit from NRHS a while back ,as of late I got over 75k on my kit and still going strong ! Never had a problem with the kit itself ,clutch was weak for the power I was putting out so I went with a Scorpion and a few little things over the years.

Bowhunter....darn man ,that's just not right what happened to ya !! who did the work ? that's where most of your problems come from ; from reading what you wrote that's my conclusion.
Break in procedure is also of great importance !! that's why most of the business that sell kits include that procedure with their stuff....micro weld spot on pistons and rings rob you of life and power out of your kit !

I run adjustable's and I never had a problem with them getting loose...holy shyte that's bad (when I read that).

as far as power...lets just say that,after my break in period,it wasn't long that I got me a seat with a backrest to keep me in the seat, I can burn rubber at will or lift that front wheel(but I much prefer not too)

I did all my own work by the way and still do....I'll be darned if I let someone else screw up my stuff ,I can do that on my own

I think most of us are so careful about our scoots and follow installation instruction to the letter and re-read it time and time again ,that things are done right

Darn man I feel for ya ,I sure hope you get it all sorted out !!

All the best
 

Last edited by Dirch; 05-05-2016 at 01:49 PM. Reason: shpelling :)
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  #22  
Old 05-05-2016, 05:09 PM
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Either vendor, I found that putting the pushrod tube O rings into the heads and slipping them onto the bottom of the tubes works best. It really sucks to have a leak and have to pull a head to fix it.
Jack
 
  #23  
Old 05-05-2016, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirch
Bowhunter....darn man ,that's just not right what happened to ya !! who did the work ? that's where most of your problems come from ; from reading what you wrote that's my conclusion.
Break in procedure is also of great importance !! that's why most of the business that sell kits include that procedure with their stuff....micro weld spot on pistons and rings rob you of life and power out of your kit !

I run adjustable's and I never had a problem with them getting loose...holy shyte that's bad (when I read that).

as far as power...lets just say that,after my break in period,it wasn't long that I got me a seat with a backrest to keep me in the seat, I can burn rubber at will or lift that front wheel(but I much prefer not too)

I did all my own work by the way and still do....I'll be darned if I let someone else screw up my stuff ,I can do that on my own

I think most of us are so careful about our scoots and follow installation instruction to the letter and re-read it time and time again ,that things are done right

Darn man I feel for ya ,I sure hope you get it all sorted out !!

All the best
Yeah the only reason I didn't do it myself was because of the lack of a shop or garage to house the bike, and overall experience. I was afraid of running into something that I didn't have the right tools for or what not. Also I wanted to have the "professionals" at the dealership shop to do the work in case anything did go wrong, it was on them instead of me doing it and having to take it in anyway to figure out what I did wrong. I do fully regret ever deciding on taking it in to the dealer to do the work. As you stated, I bet I would have been so careful and would have rechecked everything multiple times that it probably would have come out fine if I had done it myself.

I don't know if it is due to faulty Zipper's products or poor work on the shop's end or a combination of both but I have not had my bike in 3 months this time around and it blows to say the least.

Zipper's has had the complete top end running tests and gathering data to try to figure out the cause for the last 3 weeks and said they would be done no later than tomorrow. So I should be finding out what happened and what needs to be done to fix it soon. I just hope the shop does it right and doesn't make a bigger mess of this situation if it is something they did wrong. On the other side of the same coin, I hope that Zipper's gets it right this time if it turns out to be something wrong on their end.

I must say I have heard horror stories about Zipper's and their customer service and products lately but they must be trying to repair their damaged reputation because they have been doing pretty well with keeping me in the loop and responding to my questions. At this point I can't say that I am a fully satisfied customer but they are standing behind their product and trying to make it right so that goes a long way with me. I just hope it is the last time I need to deal with this or any other issues right off the bat after getting it back. I will be getting a manual and learning my bike inside and out once I get it back and it is in good working order, that is for sure. I will continue to take it back to the shop and demand that it be made right if things are still not working as they should, until it is absolutely perfect.
 
  #24  
Old 05-05-2016, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jackddg22
Either vendor, I found that putting the pushrod tube O rings into the heads and slipping them onto the bottom of the tubes works best. It really sucks to have a leak and have to pull a head to fix it.
Jack
Good advice. This is covered very well in Hammer's instructions to install the o rings in the heads first. What I WISH I would have done, was replace the lower pushrod retainer blocks (very crappy on my ole '96') with the new machined solid blocks that Hammer makes. That's where my leak was, again, requiring either to remove the rocker boxes to correct, or cut them out and install the two piece pushrod and tube set which I'm not a big fan...

Fixed the small leak for now using good ole Hylomar! I'll install the lower billet blocks this winter.

I can only speak to Hammer. I have had nothing but a great experience with them.
 
  #25  
Old 05-06-2016, 09:12 AM
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It's just tough to beat hammers R&D, tech sections and information they share with Xl enthusiast. Sometimes they have a garage sale and have killer deals on 1250 kits. I actually run the big fin version on my 1992 Xl. I love the rubbermount big fin jugs and heads.
 
  #26  
Old 05-06-2016, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Madnss
I love the rubbermount big fin jugs and heads.
I couldnt see putting on the older style cyls on my rubber mount I figure Harley made the fins bigger for a reason plus I wanted it to look right and only Hammer had them. Honestly I would have done a 1200 conv with big fins before I did a 1250 conv with small fins having the right kind of cyls is more important than 50cc to me.
 
  #27  
Old 05-06-2016, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Madnss
It's just tough to beat hammers R&D, tech sections and information they share with Xl enthusiast. Sometimes they have a garage sale and have killer deals on 1250 kits. I actually run the big fin version on my 1992 Xl. I love the rubbermount big fin jugs and heads.
does it get posted to the forum when there are "garage sales"? I'm planning for future improvements
 
  #28  
Old 05-06-2016, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Backinblack83
does it get posted to the forum when there are "garage sales"? I'm planning for future improvements
Head to their website, left side, garage sales.
 
  #29  
Old 05-06-2016, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Madnss
Head to their website, left side, garage sales.
Awesome, thank you!
 
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