I know..... There are a million threads about these bolts. I have a specific question, so I'm starting a new thread.

Yesterday, while trying to torque down the bolt, I stripped one of them. As anyone who has looked for bolts knows, HD used an uniquely sized bolt for the shocks. I wrote down the sizes and thread patterns I found online, and went to several places here in town. This morning, I found some that match the dimensions, but not the barrel thread length. (I'm not sure what the real name is. It's the smooth part of the barrel.) I got what they had, figuring I'd ask here before putting them on. I took a pic, to see what you fine folks think. They are Grade 12, and are the correct overall dimensions and thread patterns. Will they work? Also, I have some washers if I need them.

Thanks!



Later!

 

In your picture the black bolts are Cap Head bolts and the silver bolts are Button Head bolts.

Some bolts have smooth shanks because of their length. All the threads won't be used so manufacturers don't waste the extra time or energy to thread the entire shaft. Some shanks are smooth because of the functionality of the bolt. In this case the bolt can be tightened down, but whatever it goes through can move freely.

Believe it or not most auto parts stores won't carry the bolt you need. You should go to your local big box hardware store. They will most likely have the exact bolt you need. Also, Harley dealerships often keep these kind of parts on hand. You have to ask the service desk though. They will not be out on a display rack or in their catalog or website.

Good Luck!

 

I've been to Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Fastenal, and finally found these at a place called "Stafford Nut and Bolt".

I don't want exact replacements, because I don't want Torx head bolts. I want something easier to work with, and less prone to mishaps.

Thanks!

 

The shank portion of the shock bolt (or any shank bolt) is a bearing surface. You don't want the bearing surface to have threads. Not only do the threads cut the part in shear, the thread portion of the bolt is the weakest part.

 

OK.

Well...I suppose I'll order some online for now then.

Thanks!

 

I had the same problem, couldn't find a match, ended up getting from the dealership parts counter. Shock bolts aren't something you want to make substitutions on, be it size, shank length, or grade.


Oh, and those black bolts will rust and look like crap in a hurry.

 

Polished stainless Steel socket-head. Proper shoulder length (un-threaded area called the "shoulder", or "shouldered bolt").
Got 'em from Gardner-Wescott, through a dealership. Stainless Steel washer, too.
http://gardner-westcott.com/
Top bolts, only. It seems to me, iirc, that I couldn't source proper bolts for the bottom mounts, but the looks of that bolt doesn't bother me. It's been about 8 years. No oxidation. Still shiny. Maybe, the bottom bolts are available, now that the rubber-mount Sportsters have been around for some time.
If you use chrome, socket-head bolts, coat the inside of the Allen with clear fingernail polish. It will help prevent rust, but they'll probably rust, anyway. Polished Stainless, is the way to go, regardless of extra cost.
A Parts Counter person should be able to look up the size, length and thread pitch in the back of the Sportster Parts Manual (not Shop Manual). Don't forget the Loctite.

 

While reinstalling a lowering kit, found the right lower shock bolt nut stripped. Had to drill the head off with a 1/2 bit, then cut the shank with a hacksaw. It was either cut the shank or remove the wheel. Cutting was easier and quicker.
$12 for the drill bit at Lowes. Got away cheap if I had to pay someone to do the job.

 

I went to Grainger today, and they didn't have anything either. I'ma call that place tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

As noted, I'm still looking for proper bolts. For my education, can someone explain to me why I should not use the bolts in the pic? They are actually grade 12, so in theory, stronger than the factory bolts. What damage would those bolts cause, and what parts on the bike would fail? For further information, I'm putting Progressive 412s on it is why I was messing with the bolts in the first place.

Thanks!