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  #11  
Old 05-03-2016 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Lonnie Mac
The shank portion of the shock bolt (or any shank bolt) is a bearing surface. You don't want the bearing surface to have threads. Not only do the threads cut the part in shear, the thread portion of the bolt is the weakest part.
Not doubting what you're saying here, but if you don't want threads on the load bearing portion of a bolt, why is the top bolt threaded all the way down? I'm not an engineer, and I'm brand new to working on bikes. Trying to learn the "why" now.

Thanks!
 
  #12  
Old 05-03-2016 | 09:03 PM
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Never heard of grade 12. Does not exist AFAIK. You want shanks because they fit the hole without too much slack.
 
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2016 | 09:21 PM
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Hmm... Maybe he said they would be equal to a grade 12. He said specifically they were stronger than grade 8, though. I'm not using them. Just trying to learn. Thanks!
 
  #14  
Old 05-03-2016 | 09:23 PM
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This may have been what he was referring to:

http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/1387.html
 
  #15  
Old 05-03-2016 | 10:32 PM
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Does Harley put Loctite on shock bolts? If so heating them up with a heat gun will prevent stripping out the hex head.
 
  #16  
Old 05-04-2016 | 08:40 AM
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I like scuba's bolts. I hate torx too, bob. never a pretty thing. I used what Bob has pictured while swapping my 5 pairs of shocks in and out until final answer was found, then went to dealer for originals for final assembly. That took the question of torque to yeild, and chroming induced weakness possibilities out of the equation. Wish i had seen scuba's. Grade 12 ??- Metric scale for strength maybe?? They do make a Grade 9 American. Heads have higher profile. Made for those of us that like to feel a bend in the wrench to know its tight tight tight. I know it way over kill but I like it- like it - Yes! I DO
 
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  #17  
Old 05-04-2016 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RickRock
I like scuba's bolts. I hate torx too, bob. never a pretty thing. I used what Bob has pictured while swapping my 5 pairs of shocks in and out until final answer was found, then went to dealer for originals for final assembly. That took the question of torque to yeild, and chroming induced weakness possibilities out of the equation. Wish i had seen scuba's. Grade 12 ??- Metric scale for strength maybe?? They do make a Grade 9 American. Heads have higher profile. Made for those of us that like to feel a bend in the wrench to know its tight tight tight. I know it way over kill but I like it- like it - Yes! I DO
How long, and for how many miles did you use them? Did they do any damage to your bike or shocks? My father in law, who was wrenching on Sporty's in 1958 said they should be fine, and that he would trust them. But, almost everyone here has warned me against them because of potentially catastrophic failures, but nobody has said what those failures might be.

Thanks!
 
  #18  
Old 05-04-2016 | 10:02 AM
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Use your imagination. It is unlikely the bolt will break while riding if it didn't break when you were overtightening it. What can happen is the bolt loosens up and gets some play. In long run it will inflict some damage to holes and threads.
 
  #19  
Old 05-04-2016 | 10:15 AM
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The stock bolt fouled because the wrench got sideways and ripped the teeth out. As I said, I'm new to this, and from what I've read and watched on videos, it's a fairly common problem with Torx bolts, even with people who do it for a living. Knowing my weakness, I am trying to find a better solution, that will allow me to learn and work on my bike easier.

Thanks for the reply. That's the kind of information I'm looking for.

Later!
 
  #20  
Old 05-08-2016 | 06:10 PM
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I use an extension so I can use both hands, one hand holding it straight and the other turning the ratchet.
 
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