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Cvaria's 2007 883 Standard (XLCN): Consolidated Thread of Nonsense (Working)

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  #61  
Old 10-29-2016, 03:56 PM
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Default truebeam appeared

praise Shilo @ ridethelite.com
http://www.ridethelite.com/index.cfm


hih-low adapter for simultaneous hi/low and halo


softail adapter...cus...


smoked 5.75" headlight


not the best package




ready to go in
 

Last edited by cvaria; 10-29-2016 at 08:30 PM.
  #62  
Old 10-29-2016, 08:09 PM
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removed the dk and stock lamp


... no no no, i ain't cutting s***. no...


used scotch locks instead... will reach out to Shilo for the 7" bucket no cut version of the adapter and wire it like the dk bulb was wired... screw that cutting wires s***.


wired up for just the halo. will do without simultaneous high and low until the no cut wire gets here.


in. nice...


good lord the light...
no... you are not seeing things- my neighbors ride around on tanks and golf carts to get from one house to the next, long hike otherwise.



massive light


had to mess with the exposure settings to get a good shot of the light


serious output!
 

Last edited by cvaria; 10-29-2016 at 10:41 PM.
  #63  
Old 10-29-2016, 08:49 PM
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Default 5.75 trubeam impression

took it out to test and needed to adjust it several times (happened a few times in the video). tried to get it on video but the old gopro 3 sucks at night and the video is terrible.

so i can't show it but, i will say that anyone still wasting money on daymakers and fakes is crazy. the light out put from this thing is nuts and it's gen 1. the 8690a is still a better light for my type of riding and area but, based on sheer output. this thing all day long.

i always angle my light up higher than i should, can't do that with this thing. there is a hard cutoff that it puts out and pours light out in between. i was still getting hi-beam flashed by people. serious light, and it's is FOCUSED!!!! that cut off is serious... almost like someone drew it.


the high beam is superb, better than the 8690a (~$600-699). clean, crisp light too. if you don't want to spend 8690A money, this is the way to go. the 8690M (cheaper version@ ~$375-450) does not put out this much light or have a lifetime warranty. for ~$375-450, you can't go wrong with the 5.75 trubeam. the real hd daymaker is a flickering candle compared to this thing. the knockoffs are a waste of money.
 

Last edited by cvaria; 10-29-2016 at 09:06 PM.
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  #64  
Old 10-31-2016, 10:44 AM
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man that light makes a hell of a difference!
 
  #65  
Old 10-31-2016, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by AK883xl
man that light makes a hell of a difference!
it's super nice but, the 8690a is still a better/safer light. i think im going to ditch this monster and just get another 8690a for the sporty



CD
The CD has harsh/hard transitions from zone to zone of its coverage with a gap then a hard line that shifts position based on acceleration as the front of the bike raises and lower. you can see this clearly at the start of the video.

sort of like this :

Each area has a hard boundry. it's weird. this is where jw speaker's years of experience come in. cd used a sledge hammer approach, just blasting light.... it works! but, it's not refined like the 8690.

8690A(at rest)/M


the 8690a/m has a clean mellow light that smoothly covers the area in front of the bike and out into the "D" shape of the pattern.

the little angle lights are priceless for cornering on the 8690a.

the jury is still out
 
  #66  
Old 10-31-2016, 08:06 PM
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Sorry I haven't been paying alot of attention, but the question I have
is about the new roadster wheels. Are you going to be able to
fit them on the narrow-glide ? or are you switching trees to a mid-glide ?

thanks,

T. (I'll try to keep up)
 
  #67  
Old 10-31-2016, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by WKNDS
Sorry I haven't been paying alot of attention, but the question I have
is about the new roadster wheels. Are you going to be able to
fit them on the narrow-glide ? or are you switching trees to a mid-glide ?

thanks,

T. (I'll try to keep up)
i'm switching out the narrow and going to mid. using a 2011+ 1200 custom trees since the roadster and 48 trees have integrated risers.
 
  #68  
Old 10-31-2016, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cvaria
i'm switching out the narrow and going to mid. using a 2011+ 1200 custom trees since the roadster and 48 trees have integrated risers.
So have you already got your front axle spacers figured out then?
(just wondering)

thanks,

T.
 
  #69  
Old 10-31-2016, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by WKNDS
So have you already got your front axle spacers figured out then?
(just wondering)

thanks,

T.
not at all. it will be trial and error. i'm sort of flying blind since this hasn't really been done much (that i can find) and there will probably be differences in the caliper locations between the inverted roadster forks and the sporty mid glide withe 1200r sliders. we will see i'm just going to dig in and fail forward.

i actually considered just doing the full roadster front end but i'm not willing to give up the ness big brakes for the sake of an easy job.
 
  #70  
Old 10-31-2016, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cvaria
not at all. it will be trial and error. i'm sort of flying blind since this hasn't really been done much (that i can find) and there will probably be differences in the caliper locations between the inverted roadster forks and the sporty mid glide withe 1200r sliders. we will see i'm just going to dig in and fail forward.

i actually considered just doing the full roadster front end but i'm not willing to give up the ness big brakes for the sake of an easy job.
I hear ya! What you might consider doing is having someone with
a new roadster get you a side-to-side measurement. If you're
lucky enough that HD made them the same as a mid-glide,
then you could just use the newer roadster spacers. However, I
doubt its going to be that easy... Hmm.... Wonder if you'll
need rotor spacers as well ?

good luck!!

T.
 


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