Cvaria's 2007 883 Standard (XLCN): Consolidated Thread of Nonsense (Working)
#1071
Looks like all the options listed above give you ~3ft of hose and
YOU have to cut it to match your cooler location. Those shown above
are fine for what you want. If you've never worked with braided
lines before, just be careful, that stuff can tear up your hands.
I would recommend using some of the blue painters masking tape
on the hose. Make your mark on the tape so you have a 'cutting guide'.
I use a cutoff wheel on an electric hand-grinder to make the cuts.
It zips right through the steel braid.
good luck,
T.
YOU have to cut it to match your cooler location. Those shown above
are fine for what you want. If you've never worked with braided
lines before, just be careful, that stuff can tear up your hands.
I would recommend using some of the blue painters masking tape
on the hose. Make your mark on the tape so you have a 'cutting guide'.
I use a cutoff wheel on an electric hand-grinder to make the cuts.
It zips right through the steel braid.
good luck,
T.
The following users liked this post:
cvaria (01-20-2018)
#1072
Right! Back on-topic.
IDK, personally I dont care for the 'stacked' banjos on the one side.
I know it probably works fine, but it seems like a complicated
route for fluid flow.
I went with a three -3AN male junction block to attach
straight-end hoses onto. In my installation, I tried to
reduce the number of banjos used to three.
(M/C & each caliper).
So whats not working with your current junction block ?
T.
I know it probably works fine, but it seems like a complicated
route for fluid flow.
I went with a three -3AN male junction block to attach
straight-end hoses onto. In my installation, I tried to
reduce the number of banjos used to three.
(M/C & each caliper).
So whats not working with your current junction block ?
T.
#1073
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
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Right! Back on-topic.
IDK, personally I dont care for the 'stacked' banjos on the one side.
I know it probably works fine, but it seems like a complicated
route for fluid flow.
I went with a three -3AN male junction block to attach
straight-end hoses onto. In my installation, I tried to
reduce the number of banjos used to three.
(M/C & each caliper).
So whats not working with your current junction block ?
T.
IDK, personally I dont care for the 'stacked' banjos on the one side.
I know it probably works fine, but it seems like a complicated
route for fluid flow.
I went with a three -3AN male junction block to attach
straight-end hoses onto. In my installation, I tried to
reduce the number of banjos used to three.
(M/C & each caliper).
So whats not working with your current junction block ?
T.
the tee doesn't fit under the ODC trees right. so i flipped it, that just made it worse, now it bumps the frame and rotates a bit. that will probably cause the tee mounting screw to unthread/backout and ...downhill from there. that will not stop me from taking the bike out today
the m/c to tee line interferes with the flared fork clamps, reducing the travel/turning radius. that can be fixed by re-routing that line. easy peasey. custom stuff = custom learning curve. fun times.
Last edited by cvaria; 01-20-2018 at 09:16 AM.
#1074
My opinion of it (even though you didn't ask for it) is that the
Renegade junction block is just 'ok'. Its not 'awesome'.
I think it's a bit 'flimsy', but it works fine. There may be a few
of the 'solid chunk of metal' type junction blocks available, but
I didn't look very hard when I did the dual-caliper install in 2013...
T.
Renegade junction block is just 'ok'. Its not 'awesome'.
I think it's a bit 'flimsy', but it works fine. There may be a few
of the 'solid chunk of metal' type junction blocks available, but
I didn't look very hard when I did the dual-caliper install in 2013...
T.
#1075
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,363
Received 2,199 Likes
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My opinion of it (even though you didn't ask for it) is that the
Renegade junction block is just 'ok'. Its not 'awesome'.
I think it's a bit 'flimsy', but it works fine. There may be a few
of the 'solid chunk of metal' type junction blocks available, but
I didn't look very hard when I did the dual-caliper install in 2013...
T.
Renegade junction block is just 'ok'. Its not 'awesome'.
I think it's a bit 'flimsy', but it works fine. There may be a few
of the 'solid chunk of metal' type junction blocks available, but
I didn't look very hard when I did the dual-caliper install in 2013...
T.
#1076
If I had seen this one, maybe I would have gone with it, dunno...
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/242...-an3-brake-tee
What are you going to do with all the hoses & block you have now ?
thanks,
T.
#1077
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,363
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Yes, you can bend the lines somewhat if you need to.
If I had seen this one, maybe I would have gone with it, dunno...
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/242...-an3-brake-tee
What are you going to do with all the hoses & block you have now ?
thanks,
T.
If I had seen this one, maybe I would have gone with it, dunno...
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/242...-an3-brake-tee
What are you going to do with all the hoses & block you have now ?
thanks,
T.
#1078
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 12,363
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#1079
#1080
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
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I'm not sure you'd get the same results with the stock xl calipers. When i was using the stock dual piston calipers, i had no problems with the "stock" dual disk XL MC. My lever got sort of weak when i switched to touring four piston calipers but, the bite was still there just not as agressive. It required me to pull the lever further back. I was actually okay with that but, since i was replacing the soft parts i figured it try the touring grade master cylinder. I've never seen it done on a sporty so i figured WTH.
Got the MC for $40 and test fit it. Bolted straight up with no conflicts. I had a feeling it would since the on i usedd on my current dyna did the same vs the fat bob MC that i had to grind off material to get it on my deceased dyna.
if you havent already, switching to braided would make you happy. You are probably due to replace your lines anyway. You can have the ones i just pulled off mine for free.99 but, they will clash with your black motif.
Rubber lines need to be replaced every 4 years anyway. People will debate that but, those same folks will tell you there's no reason to go with braided. Nevermind the fact that the service and owners manual for nearly all motorcycle manufacturers say to do so. Braided can last much longer since they don't stretch and get weak like rubber lines.
For naysayers:
Note the notes, 1 & 2
Last edited by cvaria; 01-21-2018 at 03:37 AM.