Real easy. You may need to grab a couple of Fosters 24 oz on a hot day.

 

what is this Auto Tune Pro AT-110 nonsense? auto tune with the stock O2 sensors.

I fought it for a while, but after auto tuning with the PV on my sportster, it performs better than it did with the $150 stage 1 from hd. way better. on the dyna, it got rid of the peterbilt feel and gave me a raw torque monster... i was b***hing about how much i hated the dyna, then the PV happened. totally different bike.

i paid $429:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251994652639...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


way more useful than cutting corners on a Micro EFI Tuner. I'm no pro, not by a longshot. but i wouldn't waste 179 like that. you be better off paying 250-300 for an actual dyno at the dealer.

to each his own.

 

The Vance & Hines Fuel Pak 3 that bluetooth connects to your smartphone or laptop seems pretty awesome. It's as low as $300 on ebay.

Bike definitely accelerates faster than my 650cc V Star! I got the bike late Friday night. I haven't had much time riding it yet. I actual spent Saturday doing the one day MSF experienced rider course at community college, but I took the V Star cause I didn't want to risk dropping the bike I just got.

 

roll over to the tuning part of the forum. more answers and activity on this subject.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...-injection-55/

 

If you are running a high flow filter and full exhaust you should get it tuned in some way. You can go the HD route and have it dyno tuned which was worth the money in my opinion. Most dealers are running winter specials. My local dealer is $610 with the tuner and 3 hours of dyno work for the bike. I suggest it, just because the bike seems likes its running correct the air fuel ratio's are most likely off. Without it being properly tuned the bike will run rich to compensate from the increased air flow through the intake. Just my 2 cents...

 

Quite the opposite. EFI Sportsters leave the HD factory running lean to satisfy EPA numbers, and adding a free flowing exhaust and intake will only serve to further exasperate the existing lean condition. Any attempt by the ECM to counteract or correct this condition will only be able to take place within the parameters (read: confines) of the factory MAP, which as stated earlier, are lean to begin with.

In regards to aftermarket exhaust and intake, the rule of thumb is, that if you replace only one of either, a bottleneck will still exist that won't require a dyno, tuner, or Xied's (or rejet if carb'd) to correct, but if you replace both with "free flowing" characteristics, then the aformentioned are highly recommended to counteract this increased lean condition and give your ECM (or carb) the ability to afford your engine its proper/correct A/F ratio, its best performance, to smoothen acceleration, and to help reduce or sometimes eliminate decel popping issues.

=8^)