W158 TTIs into V&H short shots, am I missing something obvious here?
#11
#12
#13
Its foggy here so I only went for a quick 10 mile ride but it was enough to notice the effects.
Firstly I don't particularly like the sound. I think the w158s are too big for the short shots and the gases are forced past the too narrow gap, so it sounds like an exhaust blow, cracked manifold sort of thing? My quiet baffles sounded better to be honest.
So, do they work? Well yes and no! Bear in mind these are fitted with the V&H standard baffle. Any way, you definitely get a better throttle response in the first twist to 1/4 throttle and it seemed to be a smoother throttle roll on when riding in slow traffic? But it seems to have strangled the bike and if anything I've feel like I've lost some of the mid and upper range, which given the reduced outlet size and that I have the standard V&H baffles in as well, isn't really surprising.
Maybe removing the V&H baffles would be better? I could turn the TTI round a bit to open up the exit size but then I'd worry I'd be losing the point of the TTI, but I ill experiment a bit. I suspect the answer is the 118s which will be being ordered up soon?
Firstly I don't particularly like the sound. I think the w158s are too big for the short shots and the gases are forced past the too narrow gap, so it sounds like an exhaust blow, cracked manifold sort of thing? My quiet baffles sounded better to be honest.
So, do they work? Well yes and no! Bear in mind these are fitted with the V&H standard baffle. Any way, you definitely get a better throttle response in the first twist to 1/4 throttle and it seemed to be a smoother throttle roll on when riding in slow traffic? But it seems to have strangled the bike and if anything I've feel like I've lost some of the mid and upper range, which given the reduced outlet size and that I have the standard V&H baffles in as well, isn't really surprising.
Maybe removing the V&H baffles would be better? I could turn the TTI round a bit to open up the exit size but then I'd worry I'd be losing the point of the TTI, but I ill experiment a bit. I suspect the answer is the 118s which will be being ordered up soon?
Last edited by TinCupChalice; 11-01-2015 at 07:54 AM. Reason: Lack of coffee typo...
#14
I made my own lolli-pops and installed them in my chrome short shots without the standard baffle removed. Then I removed the baffle and installed my lolli-pops. I liked the sound and performance much better.
Then I removed the chrome heat shields and wrapped the pipes with DEI Titanium wrap and used the hose clamps off my heat shields. I then decided to paint my remaining chrome with VHT ceramic header paint.
I like the look much better than the cookie cutter chrome short shots.
Then I removed the chrome heat shields and wrapped the pipes with DEI Titanium wrap and used the hose clamps off my heat shields. I then decided to paint my remaining chrome with VHT ceramic header paint.
I like the look much better than the cookie cutter chrome short shots.
#15
Well I would get the W258s if you do the stock exhaust w/o baffles. I did the W158s that was recommended & they are to small IMO. I lost a lot of bottom end power & my fuel mileage dropped a good bit. Low fuel light is on at 70-75miles when it was 100-110 miles before. And it's very loud. Little louder then I was expecting. I wish I didn't do it in the end. Now I'm looking for a full exhaust system or slip ons.
#16
#17
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Yes took some wiggling about to do it though. Or brute force and ignorance... ;D
I'm pleased I got the top hole in the heat shield lined up nicely but i made a mess of the notching out. Thank God you cant see it. Also put a few light scratches in the heat shields when pulling the retaining clips etc. So not my best days wrenching.
That said its done and that's the main thing and of course the other benefit is if I do want to change baffles I dont have to remove the heat shields. Shame V&H didnt think to do leave access to the retaining screws really. Looking forward to riding it tomorrow and hopefully enjoy the fruits of my labour!
I'm pleased I got the top hole in the heat shield lined up nicely but i made a mess of the notching out. Thank God you cant see it. Also put a few light scratches in the heat shields when pulling the retaining clips etc. So not my best days wrenching.
That said its done and that's the main thing and of course the other benefit is if I do want to change baffles I dont have to remove the heat shields. Shame V&H didnt think to do leave access to the retaining screws really. Looking forward to riding it tomorrow and hopefully enjoy the fruits of my labour!
However, you can rotate them about 20* and see if you like the sound better. There is no "right/correct" orientation, just move them till you get the sound and power you want. However, 99% of the time it is always going to be better with the threaded side of the TTI closer to the engine/the cupped side of the TTI closest to the atmosphere...but they do not need to be exactly at a right angle.
W118's work best in Short Shots with baffles, W158's work best in Short Shots with no baffles.
If you want to modify stock slip-ons, they perform and sound exceptionally well. Here are a couple of vids.
I made my own lolli-pops and installed them in my chrome short shots without the standard baffle removed. Then I removed the baffle and installed my lolli-pops. I liked the sound and performance much better.
Then I removed the chrome heat shields and wrapped the pipes with DEI Titanium wrap and used the hose clamps off my heat shields. I then decided to paint my remaining chrome with VHT ceramic header paint.
I like the look much better than the cookie cutter chrome short shots.
Then I removed the chrome heat shields and wrapped the pipes with DEI Titanium wrap and used the hose clamps off my heat shields. I then decided to paint my remaining chrome with VHT ceramic header paint.
I like the look much better than the cookie cutter chrome short shots.
If you'd like to test them outl, send an email to Support@DKCustomProducts.com with Attention Kevin in the subject line and copy and paste this note into it.
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#18
As TCC noted, the W158's in Short Shots are really more suited to running with no baffles. (see video below)
However, you can rotate them about 20* and see if you like the sound better. There is no "right/correct" orientation, just move them till you get the sound and power you want. However, 99% of the time it is always going to be better with the threaded side of the TTI closer to the engine/the cupped side of the TTI closest to the atmosphere...but they do not need to be exactly at a right angle.
W118's work best in Short Shots with baffles, W158's work best in Short Shots with no baffles.
However, you can rotate them about 20* and see if you like the sound better. There is no "right/correct" orientation, just move them till you get the sound and power you want. However, 99% of the time it is always going to be better with the threaded side of the TTI closer to the engine/the cupped side of the TTI closest to the atmosphere...but they do not need to be exactly at a right angle.
W118's work best in Short Shots with baffles, W158's work best in Short Shots with no baffles.
Thanks for the feedback. I've ordered up a set of w118s from MacShot Customs and will try them. I'll probably have a swap about of the various set up options too.
#19
As TCC noted, the W158's in Short Shots are really more suited to running with no baffles. (see video below)
However, you can rotate them about 20* and see if you like the sound better. There is no "right/correct" orientation, just move them till you get the sound and power you want. However, 99% of the time it is always going to be better with the threaded side of the TTI closer to the engine/the cupped side of the TTI closest to the atmosphere...but they do not need to be exactly at a right angle.
W118's work best in Short Shots with baffles, W158's work best in Short Shots with no baffles.
However, you can rotate them about 20* and see if you like the sound better. There is no "right/correct" orientation, just move them till you get the sound and power you want. However, 99% of the time it is always going to be better with the threaded side of the TTI closer to the engine/the cupped side of the TTI closest to the atmosphere...but they do not need to be exactly at a right angle.
W118's work best in Short Shots with baffles, W158's work best in Short Shots with no baffles.
Hi Kevin,
I did turn them by 20 degrees-ish and wow what a difference! Best way I can think to describe it is if you've ever had a lean running bike carb'ed bike and then raised the needles and got your low end grunt and throttle response back, its the same as that! The bike does more for less (throttle) and the pick up is just much quicker and smoother. Exhaust note is much better too.
I have ordered the w118s though as I think they will be more appropriate and evenly gapped in the exhaust and if sitting correctly should surely benefit from the design?
Once I'm happy with that, the next step with be playing with the Screamin' Eagle Pro Street Tuner!!
#20
118s turned up this morning! MacShot customs are certainly on the ball! If any of you UK guys want DK stuff these are good guys.
http://www.macshot.co.uk/
http://www.macshot.co.uk/