Wide band vs narrow band O2 sensors?
#1
Wide band vs narrow band O2 sensors?
I've searched the forums for an answer but only get threads about the thunder max using wide band O2 sensors & the troubles of installing it with V&H short shots & numerous arguments about my fuel mgt. system is better than yours.
What I want to know is there any improvements or reason to switch to wide band from narrow band sensor & what would they be? If so what part # wide band sensor fits the Sportster 72. Would the ECM have to be remapped for this switch?
I have a Cobra FI 2000 R Power Pro CVT unit on the bike for 20 mths & all is well except 1 wire broke off the fuel injector plug. After dealing with the smart *** customer service I was hooked up with a warranty guy who immediately sent me a new wire harness. I pluged it in re-enstall the unit & all is well again.
I'm just curious if a wide band O2 sensor would be any improvement or not & if so what Part # it'd be & if they stock ECM would have to be re-mapped?
Has anyone done this besides all of you using the Thunder Max unit?
What I want to know is there any improvements or reason to switch to wide band from narrow band sensor & what would they be? If so what part # wide band sensor fits the Sportster 72. Would the ECM have to be remapped for this switch?
I have a Cobra FI 2000 R Power Pro CVT unit on the bike for 20 mths & all is well except 1 wire broke off the fuel injector plug. After dealing with the smart *** customer service I was hooked up with a warranty guy who immediately sent me a new wire harness. I pluged it in re-enstall the unit & all is well again.
I'm just curious if a wide band O2 sensor would be any improvement or not & if so what Part # it'd be & if they stock ECM would have to be re-mapped?
Has anyone done this besides all of you using the Thunder Max unit?
#2
Narrow band O2 sensors are set at about 14.7 as ideal. They only can tell you if you are above that or below that, basically. So anything below 14.6 is the same, and anything above 14.8 looks the same to the sensor.
Wide band sensors can give you a reading from 10-20 AFR, which allows you to see what is going on better when you can differentiate between 13.7 and 12.3 AFR.
Wide band sensors can give you a reading from 10-20 AFR, which allows you to see what is going on better when you can differentiate between 13.7 and 12.3 AFR.
Last edited by Scuba10jdl; 08-04-2015 at 07:05 AM.
#3
Narrow band O2 sensors are set at about 14.7 as ideal. They only can tell you if you are above that or below that, basically. So anything below 14.6 is the same, and anythign above 14.8 looks the same to the sensor.
Wide band sensors can give you a reading from 10-20 AFR, which allows you to see what is going on better when you can differentiate between 13.7 and 12.3 AFR.
Wide band sensors can give you a reading from 10-20 AFR, which allows you to see what is going on better when you can differentiate between 13.7 and 12.3 AFR.
#4
Wide band sensors are not electrically compatible with narrow band sensors. Meaning if you use any piggyback device - sensors are still connected to the stock ECM - they won't work.
Only a standalone device as ThunderMax which is designed to work with wide band sensors can benefit from them.
Only a standalone device as ThunderMax which is designed to work with wide band sensors can benefit from them.
#5
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Casper Johnson (05-20-2021)
#6
Wide band sensors are not electrically compatible with narrow band sensors. Meaning if you use any piggyback device - sensors are still connected to the stock ECM - they won't work.
Only a standalone device as ThunderMax which is designed to work with wide band sensors can benefit from them.
Only a standalone device as ThunderMax which is designed to work with wide band sensors can benefit from them.
#7
I was just curious & don't know a lot about O2 sensors thought maybe changing them would be a simple performance improvement.
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#8
ThunderMax as a complete solution is hard to beat. It will get your AFR right everywhere, always. Altitude changes, humidity, air temperature, atmospheric pressure, everything is taken into account. Regardless of conditions you will get max economy (better than stock) if you go easy and max power when you open it up. If you compare cheaper solutions with ThunderMax you will find it has the best bang for a buck.
#9
The fact it replaces stock ECM should not scare you. My TMax has 20k on it and never missed a beat. However, if you like long trips you can tuck your stock ECM into your luggage. It will work and bring you back home, with O2 sensors disconnected you will get a check engine light but otherwise it will work.
ThunderMax as a complete solution is hard to beat. It will get your AFR right everywhere, always. Altitude changes, humidity, air temperature, atmospheric pressure, everything is taken into account. Regardless of conditions you will get max economy (better than stock) if you go easy and max power when you open it up. If you compare cheaper solutions with ThunderMax you will find it has the best bang for a buck.
ThunderMax as a complete solution is hard to beat. It will get your AFR right everywhere, always. Altitude changes, humidity, air temperature, atmospheric pressure, everything is taken into account. Regardless of conditions you will get max economy (better than stock) if you go easy and max power when you open it up. If you compare cheaper solutions with ThunderMax you will find it has the best bang for a buck.
Next bike I'll go the extra expense & get the Thunder Max. I got to convince my wife I need another bike LOL
#10
Lots of wishful thinking and very little truth.
If you want to tinker with your fueling all the time, hey, choice is yours.
I personally prefer to enjoy the ride and let TMax take care of fueling, and it is always perfect. You will never get close to it with your manual tuning.
The only thing I had to adjust manually was slight correction to the ignition curve, it wasn't perfect for hot climate.
Why forums like this always tempt uneducated smartasses to post? Last time when someone tried to prove scientifically there is no need to use clutch with Sportster because the gearbox is "constant mesh" I simply took a long break from these forums. I have very low tolerance for stupidity. Time for another break, methinks.
If you want to tinker with your fueling all the time, hey, choice is yours.
I personally prefer to enjoy the ride and let TMax take care of fueling, and it is always perfect. You will never get close to it with your manual tuning.
The only thing I had to adjust manually was slight correction to the ignition curve, it wasn't perfect for hot climate.
Why forums like this always tempt uneducated smartasses to post? Last time when someone tried to prove scientifically there is no need to use clutch with Sportster because the gearbox is "constant mesh" I simply took a long break from these forums. I have very low tolerance for stupidity. Time for another break, methinks.