starter just clicks HELP
#1
starter just clicks HELP
I rebuilt my engine bike been down for 3 months and now i try start for first time just get solenoid click but when test wire from start button that goes to relay only get 9v and and when test green wire from relay to solenoid get 9v but when unplug green wire at solenoid i get normal voltage.
Does this mean solenoid is bad?
Does this mean solenoid is bad?
#3
Bad battery. I'm not smart enough to tell you how or why but sounds like a bad battery. I accidentally killed my battery once by leaving the key in and headlight on as I backed into the garage on a sunny day needing to take a leak. Even after "charging" it up on a trickle charger for days and getting the power up to 13 it wouldn't turn the engine over. Had plenty of juice to power the headlight and the fuelpak fp3 which told me the battery had plenty of charge, but go to start the bike and "click click click". The battery wasn't 6 months old.
#4
Check across your battery terminals and if is only giving 9 volts then a click is about all you can expect! Remove your battery from the bike and charge on a battery charger, not a trickle charger - if the poor thing has been left unloved for three months it needs some tlc and deserves a full charge. Once done refit it and try again. Best of luck and let us know what happens!
#7
If the voltage at the battery holds 12.5V when hitting the Start button, then you likely have a bad battery cable connection (check BOTH ends of BOTH cables for clean & tight), or a bad starter relay, or possibly a bad battery cable itself. The cables have been known to corrode inside the cable end connectors.
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#8
I'm not sure what you're trying to say. Are you saying that the battery posts show 12 volts while cranking but the solenoid only shows 9? Or are you saying that the battery shows 12.5 volts with no load and that, when you hit the start button the voltage at the solenoid drops from 12.5 to 9?
I am assuming that you meant, "[No-load] voltage at the battery post is 12.5 volts. When I hit the start button, voltage at the solenoid drops to 9 volts."
If that's what you meant, then you have a bad battery. Voltage across the posts when the battery is just resting is pretty meaningless. What matters is a battery's response to having a large amperage draw. A bad battery will often show acceptable voltage across the terminals when there's no load. But once a load is placed on the battery, the voltage of a weak battery will drop to unacceptable levels.
Remember, a battery's resting voltage only tells you about its state of charge, it doesn't tell you anything at all about how strong the battery is. I can string 8 AA batteries together and get 12 volts, but that won't crank a starter because there isn't enough amp-hour capacity behind it.
#9
This is an example of a situation that is made unnecessarily ambiguous as a result of inadequate punctuation.
I'm not sure what you're trying to say. Are you saying that the battery posts show 12 volts while cranking but the solenoid only shows 9? Or are you saying that the battery shows 12.5 volts with no load and that, when you hit the start button the voltage at the solenoid drops from 12.5 to 9?
I am assuming that you meant, "[No-load] voltage at the battery post is 12.5 volts. When I hit the start button, voltage at the solenoid drops to 9 volts."
If that's what you meant, then you have a bad battery. Voltage across the posts when the battery is just resting is pretty meaningless. What matters is a battery's response to having a large amperage draw. A bad battery will often show acceptable voltage across the terminals when there's no load. But once a load is placed on the battery, the voltage of a weak battery will drop to unacceptable levels.
Remember, a battery's resting voltage only tells you about its state of charge, it doesn't tell you anything at all about how strong the battery is. I can string 8 AA batteries together and get 12 volts, but that won't crank a starter because there isn't enough amp-hour capacity behind it.
I'm not sure what you're trying to say. Are you saying that the battery posts show 12 volts while cranking but the solenoid only shows 9? Or are you saying that the battery shows 12.5 volts with no load and that, when you hit the start button the voltage at the solenoid drops from 12.5 to 9?
I am assuming that you meant, "[No-load] voltage at the battery post is 12.5 volts. When I hit the start button, voltage at the solenoid drops to 9 volts."
If that's what you meant, then you have a bad battery. Voltage across the posts when the battery is just resting is pretty meaningless. What matters is a battery's response to having a large amperage draw. A bad battery will often show acceptable voltage across the terminals when there's no load. But once a load is placed on the battery, the voltage of a weak battery will drop to unacceptable levels.
Remember, a battery's resting voltage only tells you about its state of charge, it doesn't tell you anything at all about how strong the battery is. I can string 8 AA batteries together and get 12 volts, but that won't crank a starter because there isn't enough amp-hour capacity behind it.
And i just had battery load test at two different shops and battery test fine .
I charged it up to 12.99 volt and tested for 345 cca
#10
took starter out and bench tested it and pinion gear only extend about 3/16 of inch when supplied with 12.5 off a car battery and i measured engine case and judging by tooth contact wear on gear it needs extend 1/2 inch.
And i just took starter apart and a 1 and half inch by 1 and half inch puddle of water came out the gear box on starter
And i just took starter apart and a 1 and half inch by 1 and half inch puddle of water came out the gear box on starter