There are two types of bulbs for your application:

1156 - One filament, one function only, running OR blinker.
1157 - Two filaments, two functions at a time, running AND blinker.

You need an 1157 bulb. First, you can get 1157 bulbs at any auto parts store and they will be much cheaper than the dealer cost. Second, since there are two filaments in an 1157 bulb, one could go bad while the other one still works. As suggested, check your fuses and replace if necessary. Also try the socket with a known good bulb (both running and blinker works). That will tell you if you have a bad socket/connection vs. a bad bulb.

Good luck!

 

OK, replaced the blown fuse that resulted from my troubleshooting efforts yesterday. I am now back to the original situation. To clarify:

Headlight functions properly - hi/lo an hi beam indicator all work.

Left running/turn signal functions properly - running/turn/flasher

Right running/turn signal still malfunctioning - turn signal/flasher are good; running light does not come on.

I have the proper bulb (1157 dual element) installed. I have 3 of these bulbs. All 3 work properly when installed in the left side fixture. When I install them in the right side fixture they do not work as a running light. Only the flashing/turn signal element functions.

I am assuming, now, that it is a loose connection inside the housing. But, I don't know how to to disassemble the housing in order to access the connections.

Fortunately, front running lights aren't required in NJ, so I can take time to resolve this issue.

Thanks for all the input so far.

 

You surely have either a connection problem ( at the bulb holder ? ) , loose connection, or cut wire.
By opening it ( if possible ) , you should have 2 wires ( or 3 if ground wire is there too ),
checking to voltage/continuity is not difficult with a multimeter.

 

Stock bullet turn signals are super easy to open and check for loose wires. However, you must create a bit of slack in the wiring that goes into the turn signal. You can do that by loosening the wiring, etc. Pop off the lens with a flat screwdriver, then pry out the reflector shield. As you do so, it will require some slack in the wires to pull it forward or out of the housing. Then it's just a matter of inspecting the wiring. Basic and simple for the most part. Just 2 or 3 wires is all they have.

 

LOL! That's how I shorted it out and lost the headlight! I'm an accountant, so the simple can be complicated. Going to have to re-read the manual for the tester so I can actually use the darn thing.

 

Well, if I can pry out the reflector I may be able to make some progress. (See above response for my abilities in a nutshell!)

 

You'll only short if out if you have the key on when you're messing with the wires.

Prying out, just go slow and use a small flat screwdriver. There's a rubber boot that covers the back side of the reflector. Pry in a few spots evenly around the ring and it will come out...go slow, be careful.

 

So, jamming the screw driver in the socket with the switch on was a bad idea?

You know, I am embarrassed to say (but I will anyway) that I used work in data center for a well-known former NY city mayor repairing servers and pulling cable. Of course, I was a bit more on game when I had my hands inside a $1.5MM server replacing one of the 64 cpus at a cost of approx $5K. So yeah, I forgot to turn of the switch when I put down the multi-tester and picked up the screw driver.

 

All fixed! Appears the ground (black) wire was a bit loose. Snugged it up and re-installed. Works as it should. Of course, I may be back to square one after the first bump I hit, but at least I know how to fix it!


Thanks very much!