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Changed the oil and drain tube on my 2007 1200C

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  #1  
Old 04-18-2015 | 06:28 PM
Sandy H.'s Avatar
Sandy H.
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Default Changed the oil and drain tube on my 2007 1200C

Changed the engine and trans oil on my 2007 1200C today. The drain tube was cracked and leaking so I did that too. I took about an 8 mile ride before I started to warm it all up.

On the engine I just bought 3 quarts of HD 360. I filled the new filter and let it sit a few minutes before putting it on. I poured the rest in the tank and it brought the oil level right at 1/2 way between add and full after it was warmed up.

On the trans I bought 1 quart of their Formula+. That just did fill it to the bottom of the clutch but that is what the manual says my model takes so it should be fine. I used petroleum jelly to hold the o-ring in place while I put the cover back on. That o-ring is one of those that is a hair larger than the groove it sits in so it's a little aggravating to get it to stay in the proper place.

The drain tube is a molded hose that comes off the tank and routes over and down through a sleeve and comes out under the rear of the engine on this model. There is no alternative for the factory hose and it only cost $7.10. The parts guy says they only last about 4 years. It has two different sized ends and is connected at the tank with a crimped band clamp. Underneath it has a plastic plug stuck in the end and a simple screw clamp holding that in. I decided the best way to get the crimped clamp off without breaking the nipple on the tank would be to cut it with a dremel. I used a 1-1/2" cut off wheel from HF to do this with. It takes patience and care to just cut through the band clamp and not damage anything else. I had to push down on the drive belt and work with care but it cut easily and made removal a snap.

I bought the correct band clamp for the tank end but couldn't find my crimp tool to install it. I had some high quality fuel injection line clamps the right size so I used those at both ends. They are a band type clamp with limited range so they have to be perfect in size but they don't eat into the hose like screw clamps can.

Here's some pics.





 
  #2  
Old 04-19-2015 | 09:16 AM
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Nice work. Those FI clamps look good.

John
 
  #3  
Old 04-19-2015 | 04:39 PM
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i just use a flat/common screwdriver to loosen those compression clamps then cut off with diagonal side cut pliers. Ironically they make a crimper for that style clamp but i've never seen a cutter/remover when i worked as as auto tech for many years.
 
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Old 04-19-2015 | 05:17 PM
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top marks sir, i'm going to repost this for Bodacious MC

here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post13933627
 
  #5  
Old 04-19-2015 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildon883R
i just use a flat/common screwdriver to loosen those compression clamps then cut off with diagonal side cut pliers. Ironically they make a crimper for that style clamp but i've never seen a cutter/remover when i worked as as auto tech for many years.
I have done that too when working with metal. I didn't want to risk breaking the nipple off this plastic oil tank. The cut off wheel was much less effort either way. I will probably stick with the dremel for the ease of it from now on.
 
  #6  
Old 04-23-2015 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cvaria
top marks sir, i'm going to repost this for Bodacious MC

here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...l#post13933627
Thanks for the info. I got my new hose today and also a band clamp. Dealer said to just squeeze it with a pair of pliers.
After reading this, I find that now I have the correct band clamp but do not have a band clamp tool to install.......suggestions?
 
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