So my '98 883 Sporty has been out of commission for a while because the rear brakes get so hot after a very short ride (I'm talking once or twice around the block) that the smell of burning pads is undeniable and the rotor itself is too hot to touch for more than an instant.

So far I have disassembled the caliper and inspected all the components for wear/damage, inspected the rotor for warp/damage, inspected the master cylinder though I did not fully disassemble it, and I cleaned everything real nice and changed the fluid. Nothing has helped yet and I'm a little unsure of what to do next.

Strangely, the brakes don't feel like they're dragging. The bike is peppy and glides along in neutral for a good while, even at low speeds. I'm at a loss here.

Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks.

 

Well, one thing is for certain - your pads are obviously touching the rotor for some reason. Have you tried to see if your rear brake lever was sticking? Pull it off and clean it out because rust tends to form in there causing it to stick. I would spray it all down with something like Kroil or brake cleaner and then apply some light grease at the pivot points. You can also try to disassemble the caliper, spray and wipe with brake cleaner, and then lube it all up with some silicone grease made for brakes; don't forget the lube the caliper pins. Don't go TOO crazy as too much lube can attract insane amounts of crap and make matters worse. Oil will not last because the heat will evaporate it in no time.

It may be time for a new master.

 

The rear brake lever doesn't seem to be sticking at all. I already removed/disassembled/cleaned the rear caliper and put it all back together with new brake grease, didn't help.

Maybe I'll look into fully disassembling the master and checking it for problems and order a new cartridge. I'd hate to have to get a whole new master, they're too expensive for my ratty little Sportster

 

Did you change anything in your rear brake setup? Maybe your rear brake rod adjustment from the pedal to the master somehow changed. The rear brake pedal may not feel different to you but it could be causing slight, constant pressure that it making your caliper extend. Did you check for any rubbing/interference between the rotor and caliper? Just shooting from the hip...

 

I would try this , with the bike on a lift/jack , see if the rear wheel turns freely.
If it does , apply the rear brake once and check if it turns freely again.
If the brake drags , hit the brake again and see if it drags worse.
Wait 10 minutes and see if it it turns freely again.
If it does turn freely , you have a hydraulic problem.
Now hit the brake , if it drags , crack the rear bleeder loose.
If it's turning now , the rear caliper might be the problem.
Hit the brake again.
If it's still stuck , loosen the front bolt for the rear brake hose.
If it's still stuck , the rear brake hose is the problem.
In the auto repair industry , we see brake hoses go bad and it generally acts like a bad caliper/brake drag sort of behavior.
This pretty much tests all but the master cylinder quickly and easily.
If it turns OK with the front brake hose bolt cracked , than the master is the culprit (or pedal etc).
Mick

 

Thanks, I'll run through this stuff either tomorrow or next weekend. I'll need to find a way to get the rear end up, though. I don't have a bike jack. I've been needing one for a while now but I have been hesitant to drop the cash on one.

I wasn't aware that the linkage could cause any brake rubbing, from how it looked set up to me I had assumed that the linkage was more of a brake feel adjustment for rider preference.

 

Re-build kits are available for your rear master cylinder, if/when the MC is the culprit. It's not too difficult.
Check your rotor for warp-age, as well.

 

you can clear the rear wheel just using a small jack , and the jiffy stand .


Linkage must have a "little play in the lever "
good luck

 

Are you sure your wheel is aligned? I'm having the same problem, to a lesser extent, and it just occurred to me that that might be the cause.

 

Or with a spare pair of hands just lift the bike unto some suitable timber block(s) under the frame. Only needs to clear the rear wheel off the ground so it can turn over. I use an auto scissor jack for simple jobs, leaving the bike on it's jiffy.