So I decided to attempt the Progressive front fork install on my own.
Almost done just need to get some 10w Fork oil. The new springs are definitely shorter than the OEM's. About an inch shorter including the spacers. Looks like it will have about an inch of preload.

Still a little nervous about getting the oil level correct, we'll see how that goes Monday night. BTW the old 10,000 mile old fork oil was really nasty looking.

Also added a pair of 430's (13") on the rear. Raised bike about an inch, I'm ok with that and hope that my 60 year old azz feels better about it too. LOL

Hope the pictures load. ( this is my first attempt doing anything with the forks on a bike)

 

Starting to understand the uploads procedure.

 

a couple more

 

The fork oil level should be set at the factory spec.
I use a Mity-Vac to suck out the oil to get the correct level.
With the Vac unit , I use a piece of 3/16 steel brake tubing about 18" long and make a mark at the desired level from the bottom of the tube.
Slightly overfill the tubes and cycle them up and down a couple times , then with the tubes "collapsed and no springs installed" , suck out the excess oil to your mark on the vacuum tube you made.
Mine was set at 6.340" .
The importance of the oil level is to insure the correct "air space" above the oil to keep from hydro locking during compression.
It's actually easier with the forks off the bike.
10wt should work fine for you and good luck.
Let us know how you made out when you're done.
Mick

 

Thanks Mick! The Progressive instructions say to set the oil level at 5.5".

So would that be 5.5" without the new springs and spacers in the tubes? I getting a little lazy, the instructions are in my shop but I'm in my home for the evening. I'll double check that in the A.M.

 

Yes , that would be 5.5" measured from the top of the tube to the oil level with the fork compressed and the spring removed.
Just remember as the spec gets smaller , the oil gets higher , reducing the air volume in the fork.
Cycling the forks a couple times before the final set gets the air bubbles and/or pockets burped out.
Just check when you're all done , that you have 1/4 to 1/3 total travel sag when sitting on the bike.
That would be easy to do by trimming the spacers for your final rider weight.
Should ride nice when you're done.
Mick

 

Don't understand what is meant by fork fully collapsed or compressed. Isn't it with fork fully expanded with front wheel lifted off ground.

 

Hummmm, thanks for bring that to my attention, but I understand "fully compressed" would mean totally slammed down. I've found to achieve this I have a couple of soft straps secured to the handlebars, which are held up by a chainfall from my shop ceiling. Then with the oil, caps, and springs removed, I slowly let the inactive front forks fully compress downward until they bottom out by letting the front end of the bike drop via the chainfall.
Also have the rear end of the bike slightly lifted, stabilizing it with my cycle jack.

 

What if I jack up the front of the bike so that the front wheel is slightly off the ground taking all weight off the front suspension and maximum travel (fork spring removed of course)? Is that the same concept as fully compressed?

 

Fully compressed means the front wheel on the ground and the upper fork tubes down inside the lower tubes as far as they will go.