What to buy used and what to look for
#1
What to buy used and what to look for
Newbie. Sry if it's been asked prior.
I'm looking to buy my first harley.
I've decided on the 1200 harley sportster series.
I'm gonna buy used. I need some assistance to what years to look for that are good, what years to stay away from.
I have 3,000 to spend and have found some decent bikes on my local craigslist here in south Florida for that price.
My plan is to buy something that in a year from now If I have to sale I won't loose money. I'm a custom airbrush artist so of course I'm gonna airbrush the bike right away too and powder coat some things.
Any input would be much appreciated.
I'm looking to buy my first harley.
I've decided on the 1200 harley sportster series.
I'm gonna buy used. I need some assistance to what years to look for that are good, what years to stay away from.
I have 3,000 to spend and have found some decent bikes on my local craigslist here in south Florida for that price.
My plan is to buy something that in a year from now If I have to sale I won't loose money. I'm a custom airbrush artist so of course I'm gonna airbrush the bike right away too and powder coat some things.
Any input would be much appreciated.
#2
#4
I don't think there is any particular bad years, they are all pretty solid bikes.
First decide if you want a carb or fuel injection, the change year was 2007 for all models of Sportster.
Next decide what style you want such as hot rod, bar hopper, chopper or long distance cruiser.
If you want a hot rod look for a Roadster, if you want a bar hopper look for a Nightster, if it's a chopper or mini bagger look for a custom.
Good luck with your search and welcome to the forum.
First decide if you want a carb or fuel injection, the change year was 2007 for all models of Sportster.
Next decide what style you want such as hot rod, bar hopper, chopper or long distance cruiser.
If you want a hot rod look for a Roadster, if you want a bar hopper look for a Nightster, if it's a chopper or mini bagger look for a custom.
Good luck with your search and welcome to the forum.
#5
With a $3000 price limit, you may be hard pressed to find a FI 1200 bike. If you do find one, look at it closely to make sure it doesn't have any major issues. I think more pertinent is Rubber Mount or Solid Mount. If shooting for a Rubber Mount, try for an 06' cause it has the updated transmission. But '04 & 05 Rubber mounts are still great bikes. Also Rubber Mount 1200's have the best heads from the factory. If you're looking at a Solid Mount, try for as late a model as possible.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Posts: 27,076
Received 4,632 Likes
on
2,735 Posts
Lot of low mileage sporties around. It's quite conceivable you'll find a carbed rubber mount ('04-'06) that still has plenty of tread on it's original tires; those Dunlops will be real hard with treacherous traction, check the tire dates. Any sporty that corners funny or wanders on road irregularities probably only needs new tires - check pressure, too, I've test ridden some bikes with real low (20 psi or less) and they don't inspire confidence, but only needed air to ride ok.
Only factory part on a sporty that concerns me is the riveted plates in the clutch; my 04 had loose rivets at 30,000 miles, when I replaced the plates with a set that didn't use the riveted mess. Those rivets let go, you have a mess in there. Find one you like with some real miles on it, might want to ask about the clutch history.
Lot of sporties are going to have loud aftermarket mufflers, or even straight pipes. Ride a carbed one and it farts and backfires, it's most likely because they didn't tweak the carb and it's running way too lean with the decreased back pressure (and down on midrange power). Easiest fix is just going a size up on the low speed jet and adjusting the mix screw - easy to tell that hasn't been done if the plug hasn't been drilled out for the mix screw on the bottom of the carb. Lots of instruction on this forum for doing that, including needle work if you want the best possible results.
Only factory part on a sporty that concerns me is the riveted plates in the clutch; my 04 had loose rivets at 30,000 miles, when I replaced the plates with a set that didn't use the riveted mess. Those rivets let go, you have a mess in there. Find one you like with some real miles on it, might want to ask about the clutch history.
Lot of sporties are going to have loud aftermarket mufflers, or even straight pipes. Ride a carbed one and it farts and backfires, it's most likely because they didn't tweak the carb and it's running way too lean with the decreased back pressure (and down on midrange power). Easiest fix is just going a size up on the low speed jet and adjusting the mix screw - easy to tell that hasn't been done if the plug hasn't been drilled out for the mix screw on the bottom of the carb. Lots of instruction on this forum for doing that, including needle work if you want the best possible results.
#9
#10
I'm thinking that he's asking too much. Unless that bike is immaculate and has new tires and a recent full service, I would offer less.
Check the NADA and KBB guides for your area. Don't pay retail for the bike. The low would be the trade in value and the high would be the average of trade in and retail.
Don't let him jizz you about all of his mods. They don't mean squat.
Last rule: Don't get a stiffy for the bike before purchase. If you walk into that bargain showing major wood, you undermine your ability to strike a bargain. Start by telling the seller that you would like to come out and TAKE A LOOK at the bike, NOT buy the bike. Your best bargaining position is to be able to walk away with a clear conscience (no regrets) right up until the time you shake the other guy's HAND in agreement.
Check the NADA and KBB guides for your area. Don't pay retail for the bike. The low would be the trade in value and the high would be the average of trade in and retail.
Don't let him jizz you about all of his mods. They don't mean squat.
Last rule: Don't get a stiffy for the bike before purchase. If you walk into that bargain showing major wood, you undermine your ability to strike a bargain. Start by telling the seller that you would like to come out and TAKE A LOOK at the bike, NOT buy the bike. Your best bargaining position is to be able to walk away with a clear conscience (no regrets) right up until the time you shake the other guy's HAND in agreement.