Night Train Pictures
#6211
I've got 3 over forwards but, you can rotate your clutch push from damn near vertical to horizontal. It's no more than a tweek of the ankle to get it engaged. When you stop I kinda just get a little bow legged to get around it. It's not bad man I'm 6' even. Of course you could tweek the handle w/a little heat. JUST DO IT MAN!
#6212
#6213
#6214
DB... there are two ways to look at where the handle is... If it's where you want it when you are walking you bike (pushing it) it may be in the way... I also have to kinda swing my leg around if I roll to a stop in "N" but after awhile you get used to stoping either way, foot on or off the clutch.
Twist... you know I never take the snap ring out in the trans cover when I change a clutch cable... After you take off the cover and the cable is still on and you're looking inside the cover grab the arm and pull it like the cable would be doing (notice how much it can move) then let it go back to the normal postion then flip the cover over (so the inside is face down) grab the arm again pull as if it was cable pulling it again you'll find that with the cover flipped the arm will move just a little more when you find the right angle, when it does hold it there with your fingers and it'll be enough to remove the cable... same thing again to install the new cable... No need for remove the snap ring and all that crap.
But since you did you should double check that before anything else. Now if thats all good.
Have you ever adjusted the clutch rod? it's located inside the derby cover in the center of your clutch pack... you'll see a threaded allen stud with a 11/16's nut (I think that's the size) anyway most times when you change a cable you're supposed to go in there and adjust the rod. To do this you set the clutch cable adjustment (on the cable) to center of the adjustment. Then crack the nut on the clutch rod (I use a socket on a rachet and a rubber mallet) and with a sharpe blow it should crack the nut free from there use a allen wrench to adjust the clutch lever to about a 1/8 of a inch of play... Now you use a box wrench to tighten the nut while hold the clutch rod adjusting srcew (or bolt) in place with the allen wrench... (Just like poly locks on a rocker arm on a chevy)... after I get the socket and the rubber mallet and give it a couple sharpe blows to make sure it's tight. now you can adjust from your cable either way because it is now set in the middle... Damn that was a mouthful... i hope this helps you in the future.
Twist... you know I never take the snap ring out in the trans cover when I change a clutch cable... After you take off the cover and the cable is still on and you're looking inside the cover grab the arm and pull it like the cable would be doing (notice how much it can move) then let it go back to the normal postion then flip the cover over (so the inside is face down) grab the arm again pull as if it was cable pulling it again you'll find that with the cover flipped the arm will move just a little more when you find the right angle, when it does hold it there with your fingers and it'll be enough to remove the cable... same thing again to install the new cable... No need for remove the snap ring and all that crap.
But since you did you should double check that before anything else. Now if thats all good.
Have you ever adjusted the clutch rod? it's located inside the derby cover in the center of your clutch pack... you'll see a threaded allen stud with a 11/16's nut (I think that's the size) anyway most times when you change a cable you're supposed to go in there and adjust the rod. To do this you set the clutch cable adjustment (on the cable) to center of the adjustment. Then crack the nut on the clutch rod (I use a socket on a rachet and a rubber mallet) and with a sharpe blow it should crack the nut free from there use a allen wrench to adjust the clutch lever to about a 1/8 of a inch of play... Now you use a box wrench to tighten the nut while hold the clutch rod adjusting srcew (or bolt) in place with the allen wrench... (Just like poly locks on a rocker arm on a chevy)... after I get the socket and the rubber mallet and give it a couple sharpe blows to make sure it's tight. now you can adjust from your cable either way because it is now set in the middle... Damn that was a mouthful... i hope this helps you in the future.
#6215
#6216
Have you ever adjusted the..... rod? it's located..... in the center of your.... pack... you'll see a..... stud with a.... nut (I think.....) anyway most times when you change...... you're supposed to go in there and adjust the rod. To do this you set..... to center of the adjustment. Then crack the nut on the........ rod...... and with a sharpe blow it should crack the nut free... Now.... tighten the nut...... give it a couple sharpe blows to make sure it's tight.... Damn that was a mouthful... i hope this helps you in the future.
(some words were deleted from Mark's original post.....)
Last edited by Tx_Outlaw; 03-06-2010 at 08:47 AM.
#6218
^ hahahaha.
Story, I did remove the snap ring and all, but i am sure it all went in exactly as it came out. Wish I woulda tried your trick for removing the cable, that snap ring stuff was a biatch. So, if I read all this correctly, by what Lund was saying, its possible that I had so much slack in the cable that my arm could have rotated around the other way . . . . makes sense, I also can neither confirm nor deny that I may have been playing with the free end before I put it in the lever . . . . . I also notice that the clutch pull is not quite as smooth as I remember. I figure Ill pop the cover and check this out as its the easiest option to check, then Ill hop in the derby if nothing changes. Do yall think I could get away with pulling that cover with out draining and filling fluid?
Story, I did remove the snap ring and all, but i am sure it all went in exactly as it came out. Wish I woulda tried your trick for removing the cable, that snap ring stuff was a biatch. So, if I read all this correctly, by what Lund was saying, its possible that I had so much slack in the cable that my arm could have rotated around the other way . . . . makes sense, I also can neither confirm nor deny that I may have been playing with the free end before I put it in the lever . . . . . I also notice that the clutch pull is not quite as smooth as I remember. I figure Ill pop the cover and check this out as its the easiest option to check, then Ill hop in the derby if nothing changes. Do yall think I could get away with pulling that cover with out draining and filling fluid?
#6220