interpret dyno session for me?
#1
#2
Sounds to me like the machine is effed up. The torque values remained close to one another, but to see a -18HP difference like that sounds like computer error.
What engine do you have? I see "borezilla" on there, so your standard 96/103" won't come anywhere near 116HP without some serious help
What engine do you have? I see "borezilla" on there, so your standard 96/103" won't come anywhere near 116HP without some serious help
#3
i have a 2004 heritage fuel injected 88..
it has big bore kit and heads done..
S&S gear driven cams but i dont know which ones..
many other things done..
previous owner gave me work order from the HD dealer that did the work ,
but could not find the parts list..
or specifics of compression or cam etc
so i was hoping to maybe get an idea of what may be inside to produce these numbers..
it has big bore kit and heads done..
S&S gear driven cams but i dont know which ones..
many other things done..
previous owner gave me work order from the HD dealer that did the work ,
but could not find the parts list..
or specifics of compression or cam etc
so i was hoping to maybe get an idea of what may be inside to produce these numbers..
#4
Readings
The readings on those graphs are only as good as the operator and only a real good experienced operator will get proper readings there is a lot more to it than meets the eye even weather conditions ect. When ever is see those sheets it does nothing for me just like yours two readings one off by 18. I have seen some readings that are impossible for what the bike had . I got a stage four motor without any dyno readings I can tell you in have a least 100 hp and at least 100 ft torque my bike is running tip top no hesitation no popping why would I waste my money on a dyno run. Maybe if I were having problems I might but not to see what it's putting out because the numbers would be close to what I told you.it would be just to get it running better if it were not running well.
#5
There is a big clue in the SAE correction factors, if you look at "the fine print" at the bottom of the graph. The correction factors are 1.08 and 1.05, which means both of these runs, but especially the 1.08 one, are junk and not to be trusted in any manner.
There are 3 ways these kinds of correction factors can be generated:
1. Really, really unusual weather which makes realistic comparison of this engine's output to any other engine's output ridiculously inaccurate, because no engine can reliably produce comparable, correctable power when the correction factor required is more than about 1.04
2. The ambient conditions sensors for the dyno are either misplaced or failing
3. The dyno operator is deliberately manipulating the output data to "prove" that his work on the bike between 2 runs "made a difference". Sometimes, these unscrupulous guys screw it up and accidentally show that they LOST horsepower with their "tuning", because they don't know how to skillfully manipulate the sensor outputs.
Bottom line: Find a different dyno and different dyno operator. No self respecting professional would deliver the results you were given.
I hope you didn't pay for them, because if you did, you were cheated.
Jim G
There are 3 ways these kinds of correction factors can be generated:
1. Really, really unusual weather which makes realistic comparison of this engine's output to any other engine's output ridiculously inaccurate, because no engine can reliably produce comparable, correctable power when the correction factor required is more than about 1.04
2. The ambient conditions sensors for the dyno are either misplaced or failing
3. The dyno operator is deliberately manipulating the output data to "prove" that his work on the bike between 2 runs "made a difference". Sometimes, these unscrupulous guys screw it up and accidentally show that they LOST horsepower with their "tuning", because they don't know how to skillfully manipulate the sensor outputs.
Bottom line: Find a different dyno and different dyno operator. No self respecting professional would deliver the results you were given.
I hope you didn't pay for them, because if you did, you were cheated.
Jim G
#6
He did not pay, those runs are dated 06.
I would not be too concerned if the bike runs good, no pinging or very little which happens, no hesitation. If you can run with touring 2014's that are now cammed 103's, you have a nice build. Not rocket science, but I would not spend money on a dyno if its running good.
I would not be too concerned if the bike runs good, no pinging or very little which happens, no hesitation. If you can run with touring 2014's that are now cammed 103's, you have a nice build. Not rocket science, but I would not spend money on a dyno if its running good.
#7
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#9
i did not pay for the dynotune..i bought this bike 2 weeks ago .
it runs really well..ppl say its very fast and i think so too.
i also thought the difference in the two readings was because of the "quiet baffles" but it was just a guess.
i was hoping to get an idea of what the build included for parts-- just cuz i want to know, nothing more-- compression ratios, cam etc..
and that maybe someone could read the chart and make an educated guess..
thanx for all the replies.
it runs really well..ppl say its very fast and i think so too.
i also thought the difference in the two readings was because of the "quiet baffles" but it was just a guess.
i was hoping to get an idea of what the build included for parts-- just cuz i want to know, nothing more-- compression ratios, cam etc..
and that maybe someone could read the chart and make an educated guess..
thanx for all the replies.
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