My early reaction to my dealer's cavalier dismissal of the problem was to check out non-HD calipers. They are COSTLY - like $450 to $600 depending on brand and finish. Performance Machine offers what LOOKS like a good one, but I haven't researched it.

You need to elevate the bike and take the rear wheel off, the ABS computer is required to properly bleed and test the system after the work has been done, and the work represents probably realistically 1.5 to 2 hours. The need to elevate the bike makes it impractical for me, as I have that gravel drive with that 7% grade. del offered to help me do it at his place, but it's still a lot of money. I am going to wait and see if the problem recurs now that the spring plate is installed properly.

It also would kind of **** me off to have to spend that kind of money simply because both HD (the design) and the HD dealership (the tire change AND subsequent half-assed "diagnostic") didn't do their jobs.

Jim G

 

my Xbones is non-ABS. I haven't researched pricing yet, but investing in quality stopping power is money well spent IMHO. I've heard good things about the sprocket/rotor combos for quality stopping power. Maybe an avenue I'll look a little harder at in future.

 

If the brakes you have don't fade from overheating, respond reasonably well to pressure modulation, and are capable of locking the wheel (are capable of exceeding the traction available from the tire), there's not much to be gained from different brakes. Tire traction is generally the limiting factor on a street bike, or the need to not brake too hard to avoid flipping the bike over the front wheel. Different brakes won't fix either of these things.

 

I would GENERALLY agree, except for the following:

- The ACTION, FEEL, and CONTROLABILITY of a really good brake are better than that of a mediocre one

- While it is relatively easy to lock up the rear wheel on a motorcycle, it is a lot harder to lock up the front brake, and if you are non-ABS, the controllability of a better brake could save you from a fall

- Really good rotors, those with spaced edges for the pads to hit, with great ventilation, and top grade material, dissipate heat faster and don't warp as easily

- Really good calipers that can dissipate heat faster will keep the pads more effective

- Really aggressive pads will provide better braking, but at the cost of much faster wear on not only the pads but also the rotors

- The combination of really good rotors, calipers, and pads can result in less fading on winding sporty rides, and can cut your stopping distance in a true emergency just enough to prevent an accident

Most of us (for sure me) don't need most of these advantages, and don't want to spend several hundred dollars per individual brake x either 2 or 3, EXCEPT the one time that the cager pulls out directly in front of us, and there is no good escape route, and we hit the brakes and hope we will be able to stop before we collide. Then, we might wish we had upgraded those brakes . . . IF we had the funds to spend . . .

Jim G

 

Hmm, thought I had that covered with ,
"If the brakes you have don't fade from overheating, respond reasonably well to pressure modulation, and are capable of locking the wheel (are capable of exceeding the traction available from the tire), there's not much to be gained....".

And I have no trouble locking up the front wheel. Don't need to worry about flipping the bike over the front wheel, because the center of gravity is too low, and there's not enough traction.

 

If YOU regard the standard HD brakes as meeting you criteria of "don't fade from overheating, respond reasonably well to pressure modulation, and are capable of locking the wheel (are capable of exceeding the traction available from the tire)", you have probably never ridden a bike with REAL brakes - like a Ducati super bike or GXR1000. You'd find it a revelation, and NOT just in panic stops! The control is incredibly better. HD brakes are, charitably, mediocre at best.

Being able to lock the wheel is one attribute: CONTROLLING the brake at that point so that you stay upright is a different attribute.

I never worry about flipping my bike over the front wheel. I worry about the locked up front wheel sliding out from under me SIDEWAYS with catastrophic results.

Jim G

 

Actually, I've put a lot more time and miles on sportbikes than anything else.
And if you've never worried about flipping the bike over the front wheel in a panic stop, I'd say that it's you who hasn't experienced the combination of good brakes, traction, and weight transfer on sportbikes.
Anything that's capable of doing a "stoppie" is a candidate for flipping during a panic stop. And the consequences of flipping the bike over the front are usually a lot worse than falling and sliding. I'll take the front wheel sliding out any ol' time, over landing on my head with the bike on top of me.

I've ridden everything you've mentioned so far, and don't find Harley brakes inadequate. They're not "two finger lockup" brakes, and aren't adequate for real racing use, like repeated consecutive hauls down from a 120+ mph section of track, but I didn't have any problem adjusting to them.

 

Lots of good info here. I am currently having almost identical issues with my 2014 Softail Slim,again after doing a wheel swap.My brakes are working fine tho & I have not had them drag noticeably,the rear is always hot enough to burn even without use after a very few miles,while the front is only slightly warm after normal use.
I'll pull the caliper again & make sure the pads are seated correctly into the rattle springs.
As stated,bike rolls easily,wheel spins easily,brakes work great,(for now). I can hear a slight rub while spinning rear wheel by hand,but,nothing on front wheel.No ABS codes are being set.
Even after loosening cap & seating the pistons in caliper,i can hear a faint rub.After working the brake a couple of times,I can feel a very minor amount more drag.
I sure hope this is the problem.
Harley states brake fluid needs to be changed every 2 years,so,I'm past due on this & will get to it since I know now,but,I don't really feel this is the problem,as the bike only has 2000 miles on it.
I have no idea if the problem existed before the wheel swap,or,not.I only noticed it while checking the air in my rear tire & got burnt.
Wheel is another 16" OEM wheel with the exact same hub width,so,I reused my current spacers.I swithed from the stock 16" black lased wheels to the stock 16" smooth chrome laced wheels.
With the pistons fully seated,caliper moves freely.Even after pumping up,it will rock back & forth easily.It may,or,may not be an actual problem,but,i'll definetly check it out again.

 

Hi there,

Keen to understand what you found? I have a new Softail Slim 2018 model and finding this issue as well (rear rotor quite a bit hotter than front rotor). What happened with your investigation?