Rear brake rotor much hotter than front - why?
#21
I did a check on this yesterday, went for a ride and stayed off my rear brake and on arriving home I could hold my finger on the rear rotor - it was of course warm, but definitely not hot.
I suspect the the rear brake on my NT is much the same as the BO, but can't confirm that - it's at least the same principle design.
I suspect the the rear brake on my NT is much the same as the BO, but can't confirm that - it's at least the same principle design.
#22
So the rear brake being MUCH hotter than the front brake is normal? Why would the same arguments you present not apply to the front brake design? It would seem that it would be even MORE important to prevent front wheel lockup than rear wheel lockup, since a front wheel lockup is far more likely to result in a fall.
I still think this is a Harley design or manufacturing issue that HD does not want to have to address. I have never had this kind of rear rotor heat on other bikes I've owned, and there have been 39 other bikes I've owned!
Jim G
I still think this is a Harley design or manufacturing issue that HD does not want to have to address. I have never had this kind of rear rotor heat on other bikes I've owned, and there have been 39 other bikes I've owned!
Jim G
I think you're worrying about this too much.
As long as you have good brake pedal travel, pressure and return you're good to go.
Good luck to you. Sounds like you are gonna need it.
#23
A HOT brake does not slow the bike nearly as well as a cooler brake.
Jim G
#25
Or the front rotor is up front in the airstream versus the rear being tucked behind. Even when spinning freely I always feel more heat on the rear. The front getting a good unobstructed blast of air going down the may be the reason. But thats just a guess.
#26
You can touch the front rotor and comfortably leave your hand on it without any pain.
You cannot touch the rear rotor without feeling an immediate "too hot!" Half a second is too long.
It is also inconsistent. Sometimes it's that hot. Other times, it is like the front rotor. That suggests inconsistent pad pressure relief from the rotor. The lack of consistency COULD be due to "fewer or no rear brake applications in the x miles immediately before checking the temperature", but I don't think I vary my braking behavior THAT much, and on two specific test occasions where I deliberately did not use the rear brake for at least 15 miles before touching the rotor, the rotor was untouchably hot.
Jim G
You cannot touch the rear rotor without feeling an immediate "too hot!" Half a second is too long.
It is also inconsistent. Sometimes it's that hot. Other times, it is like the front rotor. That suggests inconsistent pad pressure relief from the rotor. The lack of consistency COULD be due to "fewer or no rear brake applications in the x miles immediately before checking the temperature", but I don't think I vary my braking behavior THAT much, and on two specific test occasions where I deliberately did not use the rear brake for at least 15 miles before touching the rotor, the rotor was untouchably hot.
Jim G
Last edited by JimGnitecki; 08-17-2014 at 02:57 PM.
#27
Jim G
#28
Why my rear brake ran hot was my fault. I took the pads out and when I put them back on the little rattle spring on the back shoes fell out of place and was causing the shoes to rub to much causing the rear rotor to run hot. I fixed the rattle spring and now my rear rotor is as cool as the front so maybe from the factory your rattle spring was squished like mine might be worth a check.
My rattle spring is a flimsy piece of bent metal and it has to be put in just right.
My rattle spring is a flimsy piece of bent metal and it has to be put in just right.
#29
Why my rear brake ran hot was my fault. I took the pads out and when I put them back on the little rattle spring on the back shoes fell out of place and was causing the shoes to rub to much causing the rear rotor to run hot. I fixed the rattle spring and now my rear rotor is as cool as the front so maybe from the factory your rattle spring was squished like mine might be worth a check.
My rattle spring is a flimsy piece of bent metal and it has to be put in just right.
My rattle spring is a flimsy piece of bent metal and it has to be put in just right.
Jim G