So for awhile I had been contemplating on how to put a speaker system on the Deluxe without really compromising the looks. I was going to go with the J&M mickey mouse ones but came across a guy who in another thread mentioned his custom set up. So i got with him and decided to pull the trigger on doing what he did. It is a custom set up with 2x6 ¾ speakers mounted in 5 ¾ headlight shells mounted on the highway bar. Below are some pictures.

We both like being able to cruise without saddlebags so his amp sits in his deluxe tin tool box that you can buy from the stealership and mine **** in an HD leather toolbag. You may be able to come up with some other way if you do please share.

Overall after playing with the positioning of the speakers and messing with the gain on the amp to its proper level without distortion I am really happy with the set up. I can hear it very well while cruising around town and pretty good 70mph imho. the main goal is to ensure that the speakers and the tweeters are pointed directly at you so no sound is wasted. Below is the materials that i bought.

Bought Materials:
From Crutchfield
6 ¾ speakers; Focal Integration IC 165 - $119.99
10gauge amp wiring kit; Rockford Fosgate RFK10 - $29.99

From Sonicelectronix.com
In-Line volume control, PAC-LC1 - $16.99
2-channel signal cable, Rockford Fosgate RFI-6 - $6.99
3.5mm to RCA input, Stinger SI436 - $9.99

From eBay
2 Channel Amplifier, Rockford Fosgate PBR300X2 - $149.95 from seller VMinnovations
6 ¾ Headlight Bucket, Custom Chrome PN 330131, 34.99
note: the shell can be purchased through JP cycles although custom chrome is on back order for these puppies for a bit so i was able to find some sellers who had them in stock on hand on eBay. I did talk with drag specialties and their headlight should work in substitute its just a bit more as i think you have to purchase the mounting hardware too.

From HD store
Highway bar clamps, Engine Guard Footpeg Mounting Kit PN-50964-98 - $44.95

The only thing missing out of this list are a few odds and ends such as speaker wire, electrical tape, zip ties, i used flame/heat resistant tubing around the engine area and to pretty things up where exposed up front, wire connectors or solder, and some good ol’ american hard work and ingenuity. Oh i almost forgot you will need to get a longer bolt to place on the bottom mount of the shell, i think it was a fine ⅜ 1in bolt. FINALLY MOST IMPORTANTLY ICE COLD BREW!

 

Wire Installation:
Where you place your amp will determine how you run your wires so a little bit of creativity will be needed here. Just remember rule of thumb if possible run your signal wires separate from your power wire to eliminate any “white sound” or buzzing. In my case I ran my signal wire on the left side channel of the tank while the power went to the right side (as seen from sitting on the bike). I did have to lift the tank up from the back a little to make it easier to run the wires, i had a flexible rod that i was able to push gently through to use as a lead so i could pull from the other side. As for the remote wire that will give the indication to turn your amp on...i simply just placed it inside the Aux fuse. I twisted the wire pulled the fuse, kinda pushed the wire in there a bit and placed the fuse back on top then pulled slightly to ensure a good fit. All my wires up front ran through the hole where your handlebar controls would poke through then into my bag.

The volume control was mounted left side under the tank next to the disconnect as i could place the leads neatly and hidden underneath the seat connecting the RCAs and 3.5mm input. To properly install the volume set up your 3.5mm will plug into the inputs while your RCA will go in the output side and the other end will run to your amp. my 3.5mm input was ran back to the front as i had a mount with some velcro already mounted to place a music player/phone/navigation.

ok hope all this is making sense so far.

Speaker fitting.
So the speakers selected have a metal mounting ring that is bigger than the headlight shell itself. This is where PATIENCE is key. What i did was placed the speaker on the bench then placed the bezel for the shell on top, centered, carefully took a razor knife and cut around the bezel. This will give you a guide. I cut deep enough to get the cut outside rubber gasket off...not the whole thing where the speaker lifts up just the outside part that has been cut. After this i grabbed the hand grinder and SLOWLY started grinding away until I was able to without much force get the bezel to fit on the speaker...the objective here is you dont want the bezel to fall loosely on the speaker but snug enough to where it does not move side to side much...dont worry about up and down the grill will solve that. you dont want to force it on, it will be kinda snug/tough but use your best judgement i know its worry some because you dont want to mess up the $100 speakers you just bought and become worthless.

Grill fitment.
Again patience is key. What i did was cut the lip off first and kept as much of the actual circumference of the grill as possible. Then i took the headlight bezel once again and with a oil marker placed the bezel on top of the grill centered and drew around it. This mark would be a guide for where i would want to create a new lip. I took some pliers and would place it on the mark and make a 90deg crease for a new lip. once i did this around the whole thing i would be able to fit it inside the bezel with some forming. Once inside i used a screwdriver to press the grill inside the lip of the bezel to give room for the speaker to fit. At this point you go ahead and place the bezel with grill installed on the speaker...if it is tough to get on just take the grinder again and take the smallest minute bit off and reassess.

Once speakers are fitted, mount the highway clamps loosely. Mount just the headlight shell then tighten a bit to place speaker in then adjust. cut wires and tie up loose ends. enjoy!

Sorry i didnt take enough pictures during the build, but if you do decide to pull the trigger on the set up...this should get you through pretty smoothly. Thanks everybody ride safe!

 

here are the pics of what it looks like

 

i must give credit where credit due this was a project of scootluver who first did it to my knowledge and helped me through. he placed his amp in the toolbox tin. the last 3 pics are what i was able to get from him

 

here is all the wiring stuff
1&2) amp as it sits in the bag 3)cut pieces of foam to absorb any bounce on headlight 4) wiring inside loom 5)on both sides of tree only left shown here but wiring in the loom again

 

wiring continued
1) volume control 2) signal cables on left side power and remote on right 3&4) all signal cables put together really no way to clean it up 5) power wire and amp fuse

 

final ones, gives a close up of the remote going into the aux fuse and the last is the 3.5mm aux input to the mp3.

 

Awesome bro. Was just looking at maybe doing something like this. Your parts list is a huge help. Very nice work.

 

just passing it along man! you can substitute any speaker in there as long as the dimensions are close...and that you have a metal basket to trim plastic will not work. Also i did as much research as possible and that amp is the most compact bang for your buck amp

 

you should post this in the audio section lots of folks looking to add tunes to there bikes.